March 30th

I'm writing the date since it might be a while before I get to post this. Probably Erwin, TN, in a couple of days. Haven't had any phone signal since Gatlingburg. Verizon sometimes gets signal out here, but not AT&T. Today's been another long day. Wasn't supposed to have been. 

So slept on the floor inside the shelter. It got pretty cold, but not too bad. Woke up to 6 inches of snow. The shelters aren't airtight, and where the wind blew through it had blown snow. But the best part was, everything that was wet from the torrential downpour yesterday was now frozen. See the sock picture for an example. That made getting ready this morning fairly challenging. I just waited for a couple of people to leave before I even considered getting out of my sleeping bag. I was just planning on a short day, 9 miles to the next hostel where I was going to watch the UK game. I pretty much sold everyone else on it, even though it was pretty expensive. I think most people were feeling in need of a pick me up and a warm bed. So off through the snow goes I. One reason I waited to leave was so someone else broke trail. That stuff is hard. 

It was an exceptionally beautiful day. Funsize, who was one of the earlier risers, wrote her name in the snow, and everyone after her did as well. I caught up with Joules and Canary there. I made the attempt at drawing a "midnight sparkle" in the snow by drawing a crescent moon with a shine. Pretty sure people are wondering who drew a banana. 

Left the girls behind and hiked on, eventually getting passed by Sheepshead. But he ended up taking a wrong turn. The trail is covered in snow, so you pretty much follow the footsteps of whoever went first. But they don't always get it right. I've had to backtrack several times to get to all of the white blazes. The trail had a fork. I stopped at this place for a long time, trying to decide which way to go, because no blazes were in sight and tracks went both directions. 

I finally chose a direction, the right one, and as soon as I saw a blaze I went back and made an arrow pointing the correct path. Sheepshead was in front of me though, and he took the wrong path. For a long way. I didn't see him again until he caught up to where I was taking a break in a hostel. He was mentally done in for the day, but after hearing about that hostel he decided to join me. We walked together the rest of the way, and at the trailhead Happy Fellas wife was parked there. She drove us to the hostel and waited for me to talk to the people there. The owner said "sure, no problem. You can watch it in the store." But the store closed at 5. The UK game didn't start until 5. I asked for some understanding, didn't get it, so said to heck with it and rode back to the trail. Sheepshead, Rockfish, and Gandalf were staying there, and Laughs-a-lot and Two Putt were staying at some random guys trailer. It was an interesting situation. They were charging $25 a bunk. Plus $5 for a shower, and $10 for laundry. And if you wanted a ride back to the trail (2.8 miles), then another 10 bucks. I'd have paid it if I could have watched the UK game. Oh well. 

Back at the trailhead Joules, Canary, and Copperhead were just coming out of the woods. I explained the situation, and they all decided to stay. The weather has been rather nasty, so totally understand. I bid them adieu, and off I went for another 6 miles. 

I badly misjudged how long it would take me. I didn't get here (Hogsback shelter) until almost an hour after dark. One Day, Funsize, Sun Bear, Treefrog and one other guy were already here. They made room and I climbed into bed. I'm exhausted. The snow and mud are really hard walking. Still don't know how the game turned out. 

A typical sock this morning. 

Me thinking I'm becoming snow blind. 

Joules and Canary. 

The trail. Yes. That cold. 

This is... APPALACHIA!

300 style, in honor of 300 miles. Short day today. Was going to do 16, but stopped short at ten. When I started hiking this morning, my legs were pretty upset with me. They told me "dude, what are you doing? You're not supposed to be walking today. You told us we'd have one day off a week. This is crap." I pretty much ignored them, but they definitely didn't want to work today. 

Funsize, WOLD, and Laughs-a-lot all caught up with me. I really like Laughs-a-lot. Funsize, too, but I think I mentioned that. Walked with him for several miles. We walked across the Firescald today. Sounds like a journey through Middle Earth. There was an alternate trail, for inclement weather. We looked at it, since it was raining. Decided to go across the top of it, though. Probably would have had awesome views, but yet again the Mist was rising. Pretty fun walking/scrambling except that the rocks were wet. No one died. 

When we walked into Jerry Cabin shelter (the 10 mile mark for me today), we were getting drenched. I hadn't pulled out my poncho even, because the rain felt pretty good while I was walking. I was definitely planning on moving on after eating. But then the downpour started. I decided, what with my legs feeling like they were, that I would stop there. Plus, this shelter is the 300 mile mark. Nice, huh? 

Funsize, Two Putt, Packrat, Rockfish (formerly the nameless one), WOLD, Coppertop, Hiccup, Sharp Knife, and Gandalf were all there already. Joules, Canary and One Day were on their way in though. A lot of those guys were at the hostel with me. I really likeTwo Putt, he's a pretty good dude. 

We had to do some Tetris stuff to get everyone in, since this was supposed to be a six person shelter. Two Putt put up his hammock above everyone, Packrat took the picnic table, and Joules and I got the floor (Packrat is letting me use his tarp for a ground sheet), while everyone else squeezed onto the sleeping platform. Wet gear and clothing is hanging everywhere. Getting gear tomorrow is going to be a pain. Hope the rain stops sometime. Also hope the ground doesn't get saturated and we end up swimming. 

Packrat and I played three games of chess. I won the first one, he the second, and I won the third. We will play more down the road, he's pretty good. The conversations were quite fun, but tonight Packrat was the star of the show. First, while we were playing chess, somebody cooking caused a fireball. This caught both Packrat's leg and his pack on fire. Seriously. I'm not sure what it says about me that I went to put out the pack first instead of him. Packrat stared for a heartbeat, and then yelled "I'm on fire!" After he kicked his leg a couple of times, it went out, and so did his pack. With like no damage. Minor discoloration of his pants. We finished our game (he beat me). 

Later he's telling us his bizarre and entertaining stories about his attempted thru-hike last year (didn't finish), when he was doing a vow of silence. Funny stuff, but the best was when he said, totally serious, "I'm pretty sure toilet, cave and pizza are the only signs you really need." He followed that with "Occasionally you may need Chinese and food if you want to order Chinese food."

I was not the life of the party tonight, I guess. I mean, I socialized, but I sort of lost my temper earlier. It was a pretty silly thing, but I guess they usually are. I was already annoyed at the individual for smoking up around the rest of us, and then he said something in response to something I said that I took as being very disrespectful, and that's when I got a little aggressive. Everything was pretty minor, and I think we're good now. 

If that wasn't enough, they started talking about night hiking and what was fun to do by moonlight, and what gave the ultimate thrills. So of course I related the ambush where Sal got his Medal of Honor. No one told any stories after that. I effectively killed the conversation.  For apparently the whole night. I thought I was doing so well at this civilian thing, too. Sigh. On the plus side, two days with no snow. Of course, now it's sleeting. 

*Middle of the night update. There is now two inches of snow outside, and it is coming down hard. Sigh. 

 

Me and the fabulous views from Whiterock Cliff. 

Funsize traversing part of the Firescald. The easy part. 

Laughs-a-lot and Rockfish. 

Me, Joules, and everyone's wet gear. The tarp hung across the shelter helps keep wind and rain out. 

Hemlock Hollow Hostel

So, this hostel is actually pretty awesome. Despite my semi-unpleasant experience last night, these are really good people and their establishment really is the best I've seen. I would recommend this place to anyone coming through. Wouldn't mind spending a day here, but I think I'm gonna try and wait until Erwin for a zero. 

Hot Springs is like the island of the Lotus Eaters

You really don't want to leave that place. Okay, ridiculously long and busy day today. Best thing about today? No snow. I'll start from the beginning, I guess.

Woke up around 7, was the first one up in the bunk room,I think. Took another shower, because I could. Then grabbed my stuff and dragged it into the hall so I could pack without waking anyone. Everyone was starting to move about by that time. Killed a little time, and then walked downtown to the diner for breakfast. Funsize was there, so I sat with her and ordered an omelet. Possibly best one I've ever had. It was awesome. Bunch of other hikers came in, and then a day hiker/biker who I met yesterday. A sheriff's deputy from Delaware. Good guy, member of their SWAT team, so we talked for a little about that and who they used for medics, and this guy (we'll call him SWAT) like a ninja, grabs my bill and pays it. Talk about trail magic, that was town magic.  He also gave me his contact info in case I have more questions. Also saw Pretzel and Carnie Hands there. She really hates that I call her that. For the record, she has quite normal hands and is a wonderful person and is very patient for not punching me for calling her Carnie Hands. 

I moseyed on down to say hi to Queen Diva at the Hiker Ministries mini-house. Free coffee, fresh baked cookies, and excellent company. One Day and Laughs-a-lot were there already. They are two of my favorite people. Goat was also there, he'd hurt his knee. He's also cool, just don't know him as well. We talked for quite a while. Queen Diva puts pictures up of all the Thru-hikers with dates, kind of like a video shelter register. Pretty awesome to see the people in front of us, put faces to some of the names, and see old faces. Flex, Mama Bear, Halfmoon, Boots, and Backpack were all there, though Boots and Backpack have changed their names to Coconut and Spice Kit. Craziest thing, Dragonborn, the video game fanatic, is a girl. Never even suspected, though I guess she does have good handwriting. 

Moneymaker comes in with WOLD, and I talked with him for the first time, really. He's hiking for a charity, for Alpha-1 deficiency. I was unfamiliar with it, but I recommend you check him out on Facebook at Hike4acure. Hope that's right, I don't have connection at the moment to check. Impressive young man. 

So Laughs-a-lot was going on at length about this milkshake he'd had at the Artisan Cafe (might not be the real name of the place, can't remember). So I figured I'd have one before I left. Before I left, this sort of creepy guy comes in. He claimed to have thru-hiked in 2001. But he said he did it from May to June. Oookay. He also had a dog that he warned would bite and then proceeded to kick, and said now he rode the freight trains. Really made Queen Diva uncomfortable. She asked me to wait til he left before I went, but there were 6 other people present so she said it was okay if I left. So I went for a milkshake. 

This place was the place to go for ice cream. Sunny owned the place, a former thru-hiker, and Kim was also working there. Both ladies were very interesting. . Ice cream, wine, and art work. I just wanted the ice cream. They had blue cheese ice cream. I sampled it. Quite unique, but I went with salted caramel for my milkshake. Very good. 

As I'm enjoying my delicious dairy treat, Queen Diva comes in. She's very worried because the creepy guy left immediately after two female hikers and followed them up the trail. The only two females hiking together in town were Joules and Canary, so I asked about them. It was them, so I told Queen Diva I'd catch up with them. So I left the last of my milkshake and ran off to be the hero, even though I'm pretty sure Canary would gut anyone that bothered them like a fish. 

As I left town, I saw the creepy guy sitting by the railroad tracks, so I wasn't particularly worried. He only bothered me in that he was asking where people would be staying that night. I didn't tell him. Also realized I left my Vitamin water. Sad. It was time to leave though, since I had 17 miles to walk to get to the next hostel so I could watch the UK game and it was already noon. Go Big Blue! 

The hike out of Hot Springs was steep, and I was, shall we say, perspiring heavily. Beautiful temperatures. Quickly caught up with the girls, who I walked with all the way to the next shelter, 11 miles in. Very pleasant company. We sang a lot and they told stories. Had a good time. At the shelter, Laughs-a-lot, Funsize, Gingko, Ramble, and a couple of others were there. I stopped for a few minutes, and then said "I got a game to catch" and off I went. Six miles, no sweat. 

I'm at the hostel now. Very nice place, though it's .7 miles off the trail. Probably nicest facilities I've seen. There was cable in the hiker lounge, and the TN/MI game was on. Good game, really thought TN would pull it off at the end. Everyone goes to bed afterward but me, because I'm watching the UK game, which I'd hiked over 17 miles to see. So excited! Then the caretaker (son of the owners) comes in and tells me I got to go, because he was going to bed. Seriously. I said please. He said no. If he had been sober, might have argued a bit more, but he was hammered. The internet connection was nowhere near good enough to watch the game on my phone, I couldn't even listen to it. Seventeen miles. Plus twenty bucks to stay here. Unhappy camper. Whatever. I should be able to check the score in the morning. If I can do 16 miles tomorrow I think I'll be at 100 for the week. Conveniently, there's  a shelter in 16 miles. Also, tomorrow is 300 miles. C'mon UK. 

Joules and Canary with the town of Hot Springs. 

Me, apparently looking serious. 

Back in the cozy green tunnel. 

Hot Springs is awesome.

This town is great. Little tiny place, but the people are wonderful. Plus just saw a couple of guys driving an old Willie's Jeep. I so want to zero here tomorrow. Only downside to Hot Springs is there is no reception for AT&T. At all. 

Woke up this morning and was the first out of camp. Of course, since I was the only one in my camp, that was to be expected. Around 7 or so, I guess. When I made it to the next shelter everyone there was just packing up. I stopped to make a hot breakfast (knorr ricesides). It was freezing this morning. Literally. I am so sick of cold and snow. Just going to rain tomorrow. Yay. I ate breakfast with Joules and Canary, and I then spent most of the day walking with one or the other of them, or both. Good company. Canary sings, thus the name.

We stopped for lunch at this grassy (and more importantly, sunny) spot where the AT intersected an old road bed. There were several people there already, including Funsize, Pintsize, the nameless one (I'm not putting real names here, and this guy doesn't have a trail name yet), the Michiganers (Wiffle and Tuesday) and a guy named Routestep who I hadn't met previously. Also some firefighter from Florida doing a section hike the other way. Walk Worthy came up as we were eating. He told me about a hostel 17 miles from Hot Springs, where I'd be able to watch the UK game tomorrow night. First I'd heard of that hostel. Really don't want to stay in a hostel tomorrow but if I get to watch UK.... Maybe. Probably. The Michiganers got up to head on down the trail (this couple is freakishly fast, we call them the insanely fast couple) and Funsize asks them if they're thru-hikers. They replied yes, so she said "The AT is over here." They were taking the wrong path. Pretty funny, cause no one else even realized. 

Made it to town about 4, and we're staying at the Laughing Heart hostel. Good place. Run by Chuck Norris. I like it a lot, as a hostel might be my favorite one yet. Walked a hair under 15 miles today, and still got my laundry and resupply done. Talked with Routestep while doing laundry. Apparently only myself, Survivorman, and Funsize understand where his name came from. It's a military term. 

Hot Springs is great. They had a community pot luck today to which all hikers were welcome. For free. Food was great. Most of the hikers were there, One Day was there, and so was Pretzel and Carnie Hands (who hates that I call her that), and most of the hikers I've met over the last week or two. After eating there, I met up with Walk Worthy and Routestep at the tavern, which was supposed to have this great burger. It was pretty good, but no Red Robin. The strawberry cheesecake we split was really good, though. Pretty much my day. The big downer for the day was the Dollar General Store didn't carry summer sausage. I made do. Falling asleep as I'm writing this, so good night. 

Photo of me at the Roaring Forks shelter, by Joules

Alone in the woods

Well, as you may have gathered from the title, I'm alone in the woods. No signal either, so if you're reading this, don't worry, I made it out to post it. It's my own fault it's come to this. 

I sort of lolly-gagged this morning. The hostel was warm, and outside was cold. Listened to Rocket tell some more stories. Finally got out of there at almost 0930. Snow everywhere. If not snow, then mud. Ran into Pint-sized this morning. She'd taken a few days off the trail, and was just getting started. Walked with her a while. 

On Snowbird Mountain had a little trouble. Snow pretty much covered the whole trail most of the day, so we pretty much just followed the beaten path. The beaten path was wrong, however. It did meet up with the AT, but after missing about several hundred meters worth. Pint-sized went on, but I backtracked the AT so I wouldn't miss any of the trail. I was the only one to do so all day, apparently, since there were no tracks in the snow. Bunch of blue-blazers. Wonder if they even noticed? When I got to where the paths diverged, I drew several arrows in the snow pointing the correct direction. And then rehiked it. At the next shelter I stopped for lunch, and saw Survivorman in passing. I ate with three people I hadn't met before, and the only one whose name I remember is Wiffle. He was carrying a wiffle ball bat. Don't ask, I don't know. All three of them missed my arrows and walked the wrong way. Walk Worthy came in then, but I almost didn't recognize him because he had cut his hair. He'd spent the day before at his house, sitting out the weather. He followed my arrows, so I felt vindicated. 

Got back on the trail, and the conditions didn't improve. The snow would be in knee high drifts. Glad I wasn't the one out there breaking trail. Still was a pain following. But all the suffering was worth Max Patch Bald. Spectacular. There are beautiful 360 degree views. Had the entire mountain all to myself. I'm going back sometime when it's warmer and bringing Mrs. Sparkle. We'll have a picnic. I took a lot of pictures. God made a beautiful place there. 

Leaving Max Patch, started following the beaten path again, and again I had to backtrack. You'd think there's a moral there or something. Anyway, got to the shelter late, a little before dark. About fifteen miles. I'd already decided if it was full I was gonna hike on. So I did. I think some people wanted to squeeze me in the shelter, but others weren't too keen on it. I considered hiking on to the next shelter, but stopped a mile short at a campsite. I just wanted to spend the night alone with God. Did nineteen miles today. Feeling good, so I think I will go into Hot a Springs tomorrow, God willing. 

Sylvester, one of the Standing Bear Farm cats. 

You seeing this snow?

One of the spectacular views from Max Patch. 

Smokey Mountain Shutdown

The weather has gotten so bad here that they've shut down most of the roads and are reportedly getting hikers out. Hopefully won't affect me since I'm out of the Smokies. Very glad I missed all this drama. Thanks, God!

The Standing Bear Farm

So that snow that was gonna happen this evening? Yeah, it didn't wait. Last night was incredibly warm, one of the most comfortable nights I've had on the trail. So of course woke up unto several inches of snow covering the ground. Looked really pretty from the shelter.  So I want to relate a story from last night. Funsize has a device that allows her to pee standing up, I have no idea what it's called. But at night, she keeps it in one of her boots. Twice last night, however, she started to replace it into Survivorman's boot. Finally, Survivorman says "I'm just gonna move these." 

I pretty much rushed to get my stuff packed, because I wanted to be the first one walking on the pristine snow covered trail. Before I left, Kilogram gave me a piece of brownie that she made. Awesome. She'd added some ground up espresso beans to it, and it was amazingly good. Pretzel gave me directions to a little trail magic he'd left up ahead. After the little switchbacks, by the waterfall, little stone arrow, and you can hear I-40. Roger, got it. 

The trail was rather gorgeous today. I kept taking pictures of the pristine trail, and Fun-size caught up to me pretty quickly. We walked a couple miles together, at a rather sedate pace since I still kept taking pictures, until we came to the Mt. Camerer side trail. Then I had to make the decision, do I make the attempt at seeing the greatest view in TN? Or chalk it up as a bust because of the weather, especially since I intend to come back and hike this section again sometime in the future? Well, I gave it a shot. Funsize pushed on. I lost the gamble. Pure white fog as far as the eye could see. It was obvious that the views would have been great, so maybe next time. 

By the time I got back to the trail, it was a trampled mess. Still beautiful though. Just a little more slushy. Still took a lot of pictures. Once I started descending, I could tell I was leaving the Smokies because the lower I went the less snow there was and the more mud. And finally, there it was. The Davenport shelter. I checked its register, and there was a note from Down Low asking me where I was. I'll catch up someday. Maybe. 

I was so happy to leave the Smokies. I know it's a lot of people's favorite place, but really not my best experiences. Of course, as soon as I left the Smokies, I walked into a blizzard. Well, it was snowing hard anyway. The next couple of miles went by really slow, because I kept looking for Pretzel's trail magic. Well there are some switchbacks, with a waterfall, and I can hear I-40... Nope. I was pretty excited about this. It was like buried treasure. And... found it. Mountain Dew and orange juice. Thanks Pretzel! Also, if you're reading this, I made a cairn and a bigger arrow. Apparently everyone else missed it. 

Moseyed on down to Standing Bear Farm, where I am currently staying in a bunk next to a wood burning stove. It is snowing hard now. Very hard. Talking with all the other hikers, and very glad I'm inside a building right now. Also, finally found out UK won. 

A few minutes ago, Funsize was looking for something around her bunk and someone asked her what she was looking for, to which she replied "um, it kind of looks like a funnel..." So we laughed and I asked her if she'd checked Survivorman's boots. Then I taught the two Germans (Dinosaur and Gingko) and Quickstep how to play Diamonds, and we played a while and drank green tea. 

Oh, and while I'm thinking about it, if you want to get a pretty good visualization of where I am, Bill has a map of the AT posted over at Pine Mountain Outfitters. He sent me a picture of it, and I thought it was awesome, but that was because he only sent me a section of it. When I saw the whole map, I was a bit demoralized. Long way to go. But I had fun today. Good day. 

Cosby Knob shelter this morning. 

Me on the trail. Smokies are crazy. 

Bless you Pretzel. I needed the OJ to fight off scurvy. 

Strategic Laziness

So, this morning I was all planning on crushing some mileage. Twenty-one miles, too easy. Didn't happen. I was on track, but then when I ran into Funsize at Cosby  Knob (231 miles), she told me tomorrow night was going to be miserable. If I stayed here I'd be in a good position to stay at a hostel tomorrow. Then Pretzel and Carnie Hands arrived. They were just doing a loop, but Pretzel had thru-hiked in 2012. He told me he finished in five months, with taking a week off for Trail Days and then a week off in D.C., on top of zeros, and that a lot of his buddies who started pushing really hard in the Smokies and just after them had to take some time off for injuries. So, since I'm weak willed and inherently lazy, I called my day at a little over 13 miles today. 

Tomorrow night will therefore be at Standing Bear, a Trail famous establishment, and one that I'd been interested in seeing. I hadn't planned on staying, but if the weather is going to be as bad as it has been (except today), then I'm all about being warm. I absolutely detest the cold. So looking forward to not seeing my breath all day. 

Gorgeous views today, and tomorrow I plan on stopping by Mt. Camerer, which I have been told by multiple people that it offers the best views in TN. Also tomorrow, I will put the Smokies behind. Another section done. I will be able to camp wherever I want again. Freedom!  

The three thru-hikers here tonight are all veterans, which is a unique experience. Funsize, Survivorman, and myself. Oh wait, there's one other here, but he literally buried himself in his sleeping bag on the far end of the shelter from us and hasn't said a word in hours. He doesn't have a trail name yet, which I suppose is reasonable if he doesn't talk to people. Two of the section hikers here said they recognized my name from the register, apparently the girl said "It's probably a 17  year old girl."  

On the plus side, at least one person really likes my register entries. If I haven't mentioned it yet, I wrote "Legen..." in the Springer Mountain shelter register. In each subsequent shelter, I write "...wait for it..." And I intend to finish on Katahdin with "...dary." The Aussie, Beandip, who I haven't met yet, is excited about it and looks for my entries, according to Funsize. She has obviously impeccable taste. Yet again this won't be posted until I get some signal. I'm building quite a queue.  

Lunch at Tri-corner shelter. Photo by Survivorman. 

The Trudge

Well today became a spirit draining day. Only did 10-11 miles today, and it wasn't even rough terrain, but the weather was demoralizing. Today's section was supposed to have been one of the most spectacular sections yet (in the words of a local I talked to a couple of days ago, "like walking in a dream"), but the fog covered everything. It was kind of cool in its own right, but combined with the cold freezing wind, the occasional sleet, not getting to the trail until after one, and the ice, it was enough to turn my hike into a trudge. One bright spot was Burrito Girl, who gave me an apple. She would have given me more, but I had just resupplied and my food bag was already stuffed. I have no idea how the UK game went. But enough complaining, I'm being super negative. Had a great zero day, and I'm back on the trail, so things are great. Survivorman and Funsize (who I just met) are at the shelter tonight. I'm hoping Survivorman's snoring will scare the mice away. It's scaring me. Bunch of section/day hikers, too. I'm pretty worn out, mostly from the cold, so I'm going to hunker down in my bag. Maybe I'll add to this one later. 

The Bicentennial Edition

Two hundred miles today. Actually 206.8, but no need being picky. Currently in a hotel waiting for the UK game to start. Elder Sparkle and Lady Sparkle came down to pick me up at Newfound Gap, and taking a zero or nero tomorrow. My poor little feet need it. 

Started out at Silers Bald shelter, the second one named that on the AT. Miserable night of sleep. Two, two mice ran across my sleeping bag last night (one at my feet, and one by my head) and sleeping above 5000 feet is cold. Very cold. So waking up this morning was rough. Not the first out today. Did talk to several people I'd last seen in Fontana, like Pooh Bear, Sun Bear, Joules, Canary, and Grease. Sun Bear was the only one that didn't beat me out. 

Yesterday was a 17.5 mile trip, but Newfound Gap was only twelve miles away today. So too easy, right? Told the Elder that I'd be there early afternoonish in a text message in one of the thirty second increments I had signal. So off I go.  And revised my opinion of the Smokies. Nice walking. Gorgeous ridge tops with easy striding and spectacular views. Pretty awesome.

Stopped at the next shelter, or just short of it. Because I almost ran into a deer. Or maybe it almost ran into me. Didn't run off, either. Just started eating, maybe five feet away from me. A second one was hanging out also. After watching them munch for a while I walked the few yards to the shelter where a group of four men and Grease were sitting. Apparently they were trail volunteers, and had been sitting up there for three days already waiting for the supplies to build a privy to be airlifted in. They were out of food. One of the older gentlemen was a UK alum, seem to be meeting a bunch of them. I offered to share my emergency kimchi, but they declined. Grease took off, but I sat with them at least half an hour talking UK ball and cannibalism, which they were debating resorting to. I left. A mile or so down the trail, I was sitting on a ridge line and a ridge-runner came by with food for those guys. Hope there were still four of them there. He also told me I should consider coming back and working with them after I finish the trail. Eh. 

Made it to Clingman's Dome at around one, and had some nice views. Something like 6000 feet. Highest point of the Appalachian Trail. That means it's all downhill from here, right? Sigh. Anyway, there was a sign that said "Newfound Gap 5.5 miles." So I'm like, two hours super easy. So I send a text saying I'll be there at three. Sadly, that was as the crow flies distance, not as the AT winds distance, which was actually 7.8 miles. So now I got to book it. Since I was planning on resting up tomorrow anyway, no big deal. 

So I pushed it, and passed everyone. First time I did that on the trail. Was doing pretty well, but about a mile after hitting two hundred miles (+8.8 for the approach), I'm thinking to myself, "I haven't fallen yet. I'm totally gonna be the first guy ever walking the whole way without falling," and of course hit some mud while I'm carrying my poles and, well, I wasn't thinking that anymore. And five minutes later I trip and hit the ground again. Sigh. 

About a half a mile before the Gap, I looked up and there's Elder Sparkle. He'd walked down the trail to meet me. We walked back the rest of the way together, at a much more sedate rate, which made me happy. He also had a bottle of water for me, which was awesome 'cuz I only had some iodine treated water left. Newfound Gap was pretty crazy busy, but now I'm showered, wearing clean clothes and sleeping in a bed tonight, so a pretty great day. 

Clingman's Dome (not 5.5 miles from Newfound Gap)

Siler's Bald II

Different shelter. Another long day, but pretty good one. About 17-18 miles today.  I already ripped out the page with yesterday's shelter. First out this morning from Mollies, at around 0800. The speedy guy and Walk Worthy passed me, them I passed them, and then them again, when I just started walking with them. Last I saw of them was when I stopped for my second breakfast. I usually eat a quick snack of some sort, and then after a few miles take a break to eat a more suitable one. I call it my elevensies. Summer sausage and cheese. Pretty awesome. Also a park ranger with stopped by, I guess he has that loop. He checked my permit, but was very friendly about it. Seemed like a good guy. Then a lot of walking. 

I'm telling you, I'm not that impressed with the Smokies yet. I mean, sure, some gorgeous views. Rocky Top (yes, I sang the song on top of it) was particularly stunning, but there are much easier trails to get there than the ones we did. So when people are raving about the views, I'm like, meh. Ran into an awesome couple though who live just a few miles away from one of the shelters, and they told me the best views are the ones coming up. So I'm hopeful. 

Spaghetti and Motor are here, as well as a bunch of people who were ahead of me. Makes me feel like I'm getting faster, especially since I feel reasonably well. My feet are sore, but not hurting. Tomorrow I think I'm going to push the pace. It's a relatively short day of about 12 miles, and then I'm zeroing Saturday. Clingman's Dome is tomorrow, as is also the 200 mile mark. So, you know, that's cool. Pants got his trail name today, I think. He came out of the shelter with his pants on backwards. So Pants, cuz Stnap is too hard to pronounce. Pants backwards, if you missed it. Sleep time. 

Me in the morning and why the Smokies got their name. 

Rocky Top

Me on Rocky Top. 

I'm not actually sure where I am...

I mean, I'm at some shelter in the Smokies, but it was dark again when I made it in. I think it's something like Molly's shelter, but not sure. No signal either, so this will be going up tomorrow. 

Only a half day of walking, since I had to resupply in Fontana Village before moving on. Luckily Fresh Ground was set up and gave me breakfast, and later lunch, though I'm still kicking myself for not asking for one of his omelets, which he started making right when I finally decided to move on. The Village was nice, stuff was pretty pricey in the general store, but the lady was nice and they had free coffee and wifi. She also gave us some fruit. Spaghetti and Motor came in while I was shopping. 

So this morning, once everyone was up and about, I met everyone. Several of them were "You're Midnight Sparkle!?" Apparently my name is known. Which was surprising considering how far ahead everyone I hiked with is. I'm not sure if the notoriety is a good thing, since I don't know for sure whether they heard good things or bad ones...but I'll assume they were pleasant.  Also great, Boots and Backpack left me a message in the Leapfrog Cafe register, telling me where they will be tomorrow. Unfortunately I can't make it there until the next day. I'll catch up though. Flex drew a picture of everyone in crayon having a good time with Fresh Ground. Apparently they all went for a swim at the Dam, which seems cold to me. 

The Smokies are not my favorite part so far. Granted I've only been here for a day, but not only were the views mostly obscured, this is the only place you have to pay to hike. But mostly I'm not enjoying it yet because it's all uphill. Did climb some old rickety fire tower. Emphasis on rickety. Probably shouldn't have climbed it, especially since I was alone, but I got some good pictures. I think I went around ten miles today. Expecting fifteen tomorrow. Pretty late again, so I'm off to sleep. 

Me and Fresh Ground at the Leapfrog Cafe

Fontana Dam

Man, long day. Seems like three different days, but just one. Did around 17 miles today, maybe more. It's almost 10 pm though, and I'm not going to get my guidebook out. So tired. Legs and feet feel pretty good, but so sleepy. Got out of camp around 0800, first one out, though Motor passed me fairly early on and then so did Spaghetti. 

Today was Jacob's Ladder. That was an extremely tough piece of trail. Very steep for quite a while, there was some spirited debate later about whether that was worse than the climb from the NOC. Much later, since Jacob's Ladder didn't leave anyone with spirit to discuss with. 

It turned out to be a lovely day, with the sun finally peaking out in the early afternoon. Pretty decent walking, once past the Ladder. Lot of steep downhills. I spent way too much time socializing today. Particularly at the last shelter, where everyone I had met past couple of days was at. Spaghetti and Motor pushed on, but I waited a while. We were the only three going farther that day. Anyway, got to the Fontana Dam crossing right after dark, using my headlamp. There was a heated bathroom with electrical outlets there, and I honestly debated sleeping in there for half an hour. Finally decided against it, and hiked a little more than a mile to the shelter. Where I am currently getting ready to pass out. Fresh Ground is here, and he's going to cook breakfast. I have to resupply tomorrow. The only food I have is a pack of Ramen and a packet of kimchi, both of which I got out of a hiker box at the NOC. I'm not even sure what kimchi is. Hope it's all right. 

I'm sure I'm leaving out some amusing or boring stories,  but I got to sleep. Tomorrow is going to be busy also. So will next few days, since I'm trying to get to Newfound Gap by Friday. Also, I'll hit two hundred miles in next day or two. I'll post about it, if I ever get signal again. Good night!

At the first shelter I took a break at. 

One Day preparing her fancy repast, while listening to One Day by Matismayu (sp?)

My feet while I'm checking the guide book. No joke I'm feeling crushed right now. 

Camping at Locust Cove Gap

You wanna talk about rough. That first 6-7 miles was a straight up soul crusher. Eh. The day started before that. 

The rain started at 0600. I lay in my bunk staring at it for a long time, waiting for it to stop. Eventually I had to get up, of course. I planned on doing about 16 miles to Browns Fork shelter. Debated about an omelet at the restaurant, but just ate summer sausage and cheddar instead. Figured it would lighten my pack for my upcoming ordeal. For the first time in my life somebody identified me as being from Kentucky by my accent, after 34 years and not physically living in KY for the last nine. Guy named Spaghetti. He was hiking with a buddy named Motor. They went to get a pizza and I started up the trail. 

It was rough. Very steep. There was literally a huge hole where the trail was supposed to be, due to a massive old dead tree falling over and taking up the ground with its roots. Another section I wasn't sure was the trail at first, as it was just a jumble of rocks. The trail continued on past, though. And so much mist. Everything was white or gray fog. And it was all uphill. At the Nantahala Gorge Overlook, I went ahead and checked it out, and stumbled across One Day. She gave me cheese. I like her. I'd seen her name in the shelter logs, but first I've met her. She is an elaborate camp cook. Just now she made some sort of pasta with green peppers and sausage that she sautéed and then mixed with the pasta and some coconut and I'm sure other secret ingredients. I had peanut butter. Which was awesome. Back to narrative. 

Walked with One Day the last couple of miles to the Sassafras Gap shelter, where Bismark and Hopper were. Bismark went to UK, and so did his daughter (not on the trail). His wife Hopper is a U of L fan, though, but I guess that's okay. We talked UK basketball for almost an hour, while I cooked some food to fuel the rest of the day. Was sort of running out of daylight, but needed to push farther if I wanted to get to Fontana tomorrow night. Bismark suggested Locust Cove, where he'd camped before. He said Survivorman was camping there. Several other people stopped in, including Queen, Columbus, Dinosaur, and Facts. Facts recites random facts. It's about what it sounds like. Everyone was talking about moving on when I left. 

The next four miles were pretty nice, really. The campsite was also as nice as advertised, but with some additions. A lot  of additions, actually, as a group of Morehead State students are down here doing a trip for their spring break. More Kentuckians! They were very nice, making room for all the hikers who trailed in after me, which was the afore mentioned list plus Spaghetti and Motor. Dinosaur showed me the dinosaur that gave her her name, and told me I should carry around a small My Little Pony. I told her it would have to be black. Much more talking was done, and currently a lot of snoring is going on. Hope I don't sound like that. No signal tonight, will post tomorrow. 

Commentary

I forgot to mention in my previous posts that I really appreciate everyone's comments. Unfortunately I haven't figured out how to reply to them on my phone... I'm not really skilled at the technology stuff. But I do appreciate them. 

This morning it's raining again. Since about 6. To make things even more interesting, the first 6 miles this morning are all uphill. Sigh. This stuff will wear on your soul. I'll try to post tonight, but may not have signal. 

The Nantahala Outdoor Center

Definitely not 18 miles today. 11.7 instead. Woke up and it was raining. Looked out of the shelter and into the grayness and wet, and pulled my sleeping bag back over my head. Had to leave eventually, the rain wasn't letting up. 

Met some new people, mostly just in passing, though spent some time with Quickstep and Turkeybird at the Wesser Bald shelter. Turkeybird is an awesome guy, 64 and loving life. Very funny guy. He told me when he explained that he was going to hike the AT to his daughter, she told him "I have your power of attorney and I will put you in a home!" Apparently she didn't follow through. I really like him and pray for the best for him. Walked with a kid that wants to be a medic in the army. Good luck to him, too. 

After leaving Wesser Bald shelter (side note, saved a lot of time with the views because of the fog, everything was gray so no need to check them out) was jumped by the German. Well, I jumped. I was looking at the trail because of the mud, and I look up and there's this lady coming out from behind a tree. Her name is Dinosaur, due to a pink stuffed pillow in the shape of a stegosaurus she carries. Very interesting person, she has done a lot of traveling, and is in America solely to do a thru-hike. Her story about coming through immigration here was pretty amusing. "You're going to do what?" "Hiking" "Where?" "From Georgia to Maine" "what address?" "I will be hiking on the AT the whole time" and repeat. Apparently they gave her a really hard time in Atlanta. She traveled the length of Central America, and obviously a lot in Europe. Dinosaur also was a nanny (she called it au pair or something) as a teenager for a family in Ireland, to practice her English. Strong accent, but excellent speaker. We walked the last 4-5 miles into Nantahala Outdoor Center together, where I got a room in their hostel.  I like it here. Had a Tail of the Dragon burger, with a salad. Quite excellent. Also ran into the English father/son team, who I hadn't seen since Neels Gap. Stakes and Cliffwalker are also staying here.  Dan, who apparently doesn't have a trail name yet, is my bunk mate. He was some sort of high powered  big shot in pharmaceuticals, who quit his job to hike and change his view on life. Hope it works for him. 

My feet are hurting. Which is common. As Bangerang said the other day, "every day I feel like somebody beat the soles of my feet with a baseball bat." Today was muddy, and the trail mostly alternated between an actual stream and slip 'n slide mud patches. It was cold last night, and combined with the mice kept waking me up last night, and besides the time with my wife I don't remember a good night of sleep. This morning my hands went numb. I'm telling you all of this because I'm afraid I'm mostly putting everything in a rosy picture, and I want to make sure you realize it isn't just a casual jaunt into the woods. All that being said, and with missing my family aside, I'm having a great time. 

My feet at Cold Spring, while I'm trying to talk myself into getting moving. It didn't work for a while. 

Playing Catch Up

Back on the trail again. Bittersweet. Missing Mrs. Sparkle already, but it is nice to be hiking again. No signal tonight, so I will upload this tomorrow, hopefully. 

Stayed an extra night off the trail, in Franklin. When we drove down from Sevierville, ran some errands and then just said to heck with it. Stayed in the Hampton Inn, a great experience there if a bit pricier than traditional AT lodging. Also picked up a power pack, which theoretically will charge my phone if I need it. 

Mrs. Sparkle drove me to Wayah Gap, and while we were hanging out met two people. One was a set designer, and the other one was some actor. Apparently they are turning "A Walk in the Woods" into a movie with Nick Nolte and Robert Redford. They're filming in Atlanta, but she was out getting ideas for the set. They were going up to Silers Bald. Talked with them a while, they were pretty cool. Another time when we weren't in the middle of our last moments together for a while and we would have talked to them more. 

Started out feeling great. My pack was about 5 lbs lighter, I was well rested, and my feet and knees weren't hurting. That didn't last. Knocked out the first five miles pretty quickly, so figured I'd do another five. Went across Wayah Bald. Big stone tower built up there. Really good view, not quite as nice as Silers, but still amazing. Currently I'm at Cold Spring shelter, a cozy little 6 person shelter right on the trail with a spring directly beside it, and a little two person picnic table. Very convenient. Right at 10 miles, which I'm happy with since I didn't start until noon. Considering 18.4 tomorrow. Was planning on it, but I go through the Nantahala Outdoor Center tomorrow. Supposed to be nice, so depends on how long I spend there. Play it by ear, I suppose. Thought I was going to have the shelter to myself, but a married couple came in while I was eating. More northerners. Cliffwalker and Stakes, good people. My age! They both quit their jobs and started hiking. I think they're the first non early twenties / early sixties I've seen, except for 4 Fingers. We talked a while, but we're old, so sleeping early. Apparently it's St. Patrick's on Monday. I feel like this has been very disjointed, and I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but it's sleep time. 

Me and Mrs. Sparkle

At Wayah Bald

Short and lazy days.

We'll, I am currently sitting at Three Eagle Outfitters in Franklin, NC, waiting on the lovely Mrs. Sparkle to show up and whisk me away to a couple days of luxury. And by luxury I mean a place with a bathroom and running water. Amazing how flexible the definition of opulent can become. 

First off, let me inform you that the signal is spotty at best in this area, so it may be a few posts will all go up at around the same time. I suppose I should start dating them. "Sparkle log: March 12."  Maybe not quite like that. There is a guy on the trail somewhere ahead of me who is really into the video game Skyrim, and calls himself Dragon something or other and dates his entries according to the calendar system in the game. I sort of admire his dedication... But it's still kind of weird. Does make me curious to try the game this winter. 

Yesterday was a super easy day, just walked 8 miles to Silers Bald shelter. Took my time, like I usually do. Spent a while at Winding Stair Gap, where a gentleman named Rodney provided some excellent trail magic. I ran into an old Army Ranger (he was hiking without his shirt and his tattoos were on display) and he told me about it. Mostly through grunts, which luckily I am fluent in. Rodney wasn't there when I arrived, but he showed up soon afterwards. He'd gone to town to reload. Bananas, strawberries, and pineapple, plus coffee and orange juice. Awesome people down here. While indulging there, Mama Maniac and Half Moon arrived. First time I'd seen them since Hawk Shelter. Half Moon got her trail name the night before when her leggings were caught on a nail. Very descriptive name. They were going into town to stay the night, but I expect to run into them again.  

Stayed at Siler Bald shelter, which was quite warm. Stayed in the shelte since it was supposed to rain, and no one likes packing up a wet tent. Small group, me, HTK, Bangerang, Boots and Backpack. They had all gone into town for resupply. The weather was gorgeous yesterday, so I decided to do the halfmile hike up to Siler Bald's summit. Which I'd heard was one of the greatest views on the trail. I only brought my camera, and when I got to the top I ran into Flex, who was intending to camp up there. This was the second time I ran into her unexpectedly with nothing but my camera, which might appear awkward. Anyway, took a lot of pictures, and she asked me if I thought bears would bother her if she camped up there. I told her I didn't, but that the rain, wind and lightning were what I would be wary of. She said she'd come down to the shelter after the sunset. I'd of stayed, too, but I didn't have my headlamp on me. Absolutely gorgeous views. That was pretty much that. Woke up this morning, everyone walked on their ways, I walked two miles and then hitched a ride into Franklin with a lady who had a Lagotto Romagnola, very nice dog who was trained as a therapy dog. Met Kendra at Three Eagles Outfitters and picked up a couple of accessories for the trail there. Great place, and I highly recommend it to anybody in the vicinity. On the drive through the Smokies to Pigeon Forge we ran into a herd of elk. Pretty sweet. Thus begins my enforced days off. 

Alone in the woods selfie. It was that foggy. 

Couple of the dozen or so elk we saw. 

The Century Mark

Another beautiful day. I was extraordinarily lazy this morning. Didn't even get up until 0800, and wasn't on the road until 1000. Very last person on the trail this morning, though Nails waited for me. Walked the first 4-5 miles with her.  We came across Hard-to-kill at this beautiful overlook. Took some pictures, then took off again. She left me on a steep cliff line. I kept wanting to look over the scenery, but it was pretty sketchy footing with nothing to catch you if you misstepped for a long way down. And then the stairs. Oh man, the ascent up to the fire tower that marked 100 miles wasn't long, but it was a steep scramble. Not fun. But gorgeous clear panoramic views of NC mountains. Boots and Backpack, Nails, and Bangerang were all up there, apparently they yelled out "Midnight!" while I was still coming up, but I was talking with a section hiker and didn't notice. Had lunch with them, summer sausage and cheese. Quickly becoming one of my favorite entrees. Walked by myself the rest of the day, which was nice. Company makes miles go past, but sometimes I like solitude. Stopped at a new shelter that had been built, mostly just to look at it and refill my water. Stayed there for about half an hour, was leaving when HTK stopped in to fill his water. That guy is tough.  Eventually stopped at Rock Gap shelter, 12.1 miles in.  Total of 106 on the AT. Came in to the shelter looking for "Tent City," as we're calling ourselves. Not the best sites for tents, but I think we all preferred to be away from the shelter crew. They're not bad guys, I actually like them. Nails took the easy way out and set up right next to the shelter and said I could set up beside her, but I wanted to be with Tent City, so I trudged down the hill to the spotty tent sites. Down and Low had a spot near them, but there was a sketchy dead limb in the vicinity so I set up near Flex beside a stream instead. Hope it doesn't rain. HTK took the spot near Down Low, hope he lives up to his name. Boots and Backpack are set up with Bangerang cowboy camping near them. Everyone is planning on getting up really early so they can go into Franklin for resupply and food. I'm tempted because I think it will be fun, but Mrs. Sparkle is picking me up the next day anyway so I might just skip it. I'm pretty happy, though, 'cuz I was only doing 8 miles tomorrow to Siler Bald, and I though everyone would be going farther. Since most people are going to town, though, they're all going to stay at Siler also. Except Nails and Down Low (Down Low are two people), who are planning on pushing further. I wanted to go farther, but as mentioned before, Mrs. Sparkle will be meeting me. No service here so will have to post this tomorrow. Apparently you can have pizza delivered to Winding Stair Gap (about 3 more miles). Maybe I'll do that for lunch tomorrow. 

Selfie at 100 miles. 

"100" made from Boots, Backpack, and Nails' hiking poles. And I think that's Boots' feet. 

Carter Gap

It's a late night. Almost 8:45 pm. Usually I've been in bed for a while, but we built a fire, and a good crew was gathered around, so I stayed up talking. I think everyone else is still over there, but I'm the old man. Bangerang, Boots and Backpack, Down and Low, Flex, HTK, and Nails. Good group. 

Did 12.5 miles today. Pretty good day walking. Long slow ascents and descents. Just a lovely day, I really took my time. First one up again, but Sunrise is apparently pretty true to her name and was the first one out, then Bangerang and then me. Nails caught up to me pretty quick, apparently she is really into track. I walked with her for a while, but when we stopped at a parking lot to dump our trash I left her taking a break. She later passed me up while I was filling my water. Where I dropped a glove, but didn't realize. Moved up the trail to the next shelter where I had lunch with Flex, and just lolly gagged after she left. Eventually left and realized I was missing my glove, so I dropped my pack and backtracked to where I thought I'd lost it, and luckily was right. Then back up the trail. Today I also walked with Packrat and Boots and Backpack. Good companions. I also dozed off for a little while in the sun. Had some summer sausage and cheese for lunch, and then instant Idahoan potatoes for dinner. Good day. The alternative lifestyles stayed in the shelter and the rest of us are in our little tent city, with the exception of Boots and Backpack, who are cowboy camping. Tomorrow will be 100 miles on the AT. Counting the approach I hit 100 sometime today. 

Huddled in my tent tonight. So tired of being cold!

North Carolina

So had a good night at the Blueberry Hostel. Very warm, and even a mattress I didn't have to inflate. When we woke up I read "the daily Psalm."  I'm hoping that will stick. Then this morning Gary and Lindsay fed us delicious pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup and biscuits and sausage and hashbrowns and probably other deliciousness that overwhelmed my memory. For free. After eating, Gary brought me into their home to meet their cats, specifically their giant, a great orange cat that was near on 20 lbs. He still wasn't as big as my cat Creasy, but a  good sized feline. Quite enjoyed playing with their cats. Gary gave us a ride back to the trailhead, and we said goodbye. Those are excellent people, and I had a good experience in Hiawasee overall. PA System took off, starting his 20+ miles a day stretch. Don't expect to see him on the trail again. Lumberjack had to go back to work, so he's gone, too. 

Crossed the border! Georgia is done. Good experience, for sure. Hope NC is as good. Sure isn't starting out that way. Rough day. Did meet a couple of former NASA scientists, Princess and Rocketman (clever, huh?). They were hiking with Ranger, a former forest ranger. Good people, if maybe a little unoriginal with their names. All from VA. Then saw the "twisted tree," which I took some photos of. The walking was just spiritually draining today. I don't know why, but I even had my first random thoughts of getting off the trail. Then I thought about how my yes should be yes and my no be no. I said I was going to hike it, so I'm going to as long as I physically can or I get to Maine. 

Flex started off way ahead of me, and I didn't see her until getting to Muskrat shelter. HTK arrived after me. Down and Low (stayed with us at Blueberry) were here, they had been doing big miles but Down told me it was a rough day on them. Which sucks, but it made me feel better because it sort of crushed me, also. Apparently everyone thought so. Just long mountains, and it seemed to us that the mileage was off. I'm just saying, that last .9 miles was the longest .9 miles I've ever done. It was really good to hear I wasn't the only one who was really challenged today. 

Nails is here, a Nashville girl who I met the first night at Hawk shelter, but didn't expect to see again because she was planning on doing small mileage for a while. Changed her mind, she says. Also Dora and Backpack got their trail names today, because Dora said "I'm actually an adventure educator" and I said "so is Dora the Explorer."  I think they're the last to be named. Another girl here I just met is named Sunrise. Don't really know her yet. 

Flex just asked about joining me for a little longer, since there are some people here who are a little uncomfortable to be around. I figure we'll stay in the same vicinity until my wife gives us a ride into Franklin. I'm also trying to avoid associating with these people. Just different lifestyles (they smoke a lot of pot). Nothing dangerous, just annoying to be around. Nails, Flex, Sunrise and I have our tents away from the shelter. Hmm, maybe I put my tent up in the girls' section. Nah, Bangerang is nearby, too. He is a Vasque Thru-hiker Associate or something like that. His group is apparently trying to get kids to be more active or something.  Good guy. He plays music while hiking, but not with headphones. Doubt he'll see  a bear. He has awesome gear, though. Bed time.  Did 11.8 miles today, but it was rough. Hope tomorrow is easier. 

The end of Georgia. It is no longer on my mind. 

The Blueberry Hostel

It's been a pretty interesting day. My first zero day, sort of. Actually it was a nero, which is what they call a day that you walk near zero miles. I had to walk 4 miles this morning to Dicks Creek Gap. 

Last night it started sleeting, which turned into snow, which turned into rain. It was so cold yesterday. That shelter was awesome, though. It definitely filled up, with hikers trickling in all night. Very warm, I was actually sweating in my bag. I was the first person up again this morning, but definitely not the first out. I woke up this morning, at 0530. It was pretty dark. Some people took off by headlamp. I waited until it became light, at about 0645.  When I hiked out to the main trail from the shelter, I started thinking about 4 Fingers' snafu from yesterday, and so I double checked my guidebook to make certain I was heading north. I was. Beautiful morning, with the mist swirling around the bases of the mountains. Couldn't get a picture, though, because of all the trees along the path. Also some great sections through mountain laurel tunnels. Lovely. The temperature also increased, and it was a very pleasant hike. Almost no pain at all in my right knee, which was a first since Blood Mountain. It started sprinkling once I arrived at the Gap around 0830 or so. Flex, PA, and Lumberjack were there, taking shelter from the rain. I joined them and we waited for the shuttle to the Blueberry Hostel. A shuttle from the new hostel/gear shop stopped by, with the proprietor Sir Packs-a-lot. Longhaul and a couple of hikers jumped out. Longhaul said it was a great experience, but I'd already planned on Blueberry, plus Blueberry was free. Talked with Sir Packs-a-lot a while. His new place sounds good. Of course, it is his place. PA told him they might be coming by later for gear for Hard-to-kill Phil, and we were still standing there talking when he trudged out of the mountains, wearing his soaked cotton hoody and with his distinct wide legged stride caused by his severe chafing. Sir Packs-a-lot takes one look, and says "ohhh Phil," in the most pitiful tone imaginable. We all cracked up.

At 0930 Gary came by and picked us up, and drove us to the Blueberry Hostel. These guys are awesome, and they run it as a Christian ministry. All free, though donations are accepted. Met Texas Tornado there. This lady is larger than life. Literally. Just one of the things she said today... "My husband always carried his gun. I made sure he always carried a big one, 'cuz we were walking through grizzly country, and this was back when I was menstruating. Women been killed that way afore."  This lady had four surgeries last year, three to remove cancer and one on her brain (trigeminal nerve, to be precise), and only three working chambers in her heart (she's not sure which three). Add to that that she is rather overweight, and it's extremely impressive she's 70 miles into the AT. 

PA, Lumberjack, HTK and I went to Big Al's AYCE pizza buffet, where Little Al made each of us whatever pizza we wanted. I chose bacon and feta. It was glorious. Then we hit up the grocery store for resupply, and then a few stores trying to upgrade HTK's wardrobe.  Then they dropped me off at the hostel while they went to watch the Lego movie. I bet two bucks they come back singing "Everything is awesome!" (Update: it wasn't showing here so they went to eat again)

Now I'm back at the hostel, and we have two new additions. I'm being maybe a bit uncharitable in my thoughts, but I find both of them annoying. One in that quiet, creepy sort of way, the other in that loud, obnoxious kind of way. That one is from Vegas. I can't tell if his hair is actually colored dreds or if he's woven colored yarn in with it. Which isn't why he's a jerk. Maybe he's not a jerk. But I think he is. Hopefully I won't have to see. Well, at the moment he's telling us how he's hacked his Obama phone and using it as a smart phone. Or something like that. I'm trying to ignore him. 

Looking forward to tomorrow morning when they are going to feed us pancakes with homemade blueberry syrup. Good people here. 

Non-selfie in the Blueberry Hostel's backyard. 

Deep Gap

I was the first one out this morning. Flex was the only one poking her head out of her tent when I took off. My pack felt incredibly light this morning. In fact, it felt so light that after 100 meters I turned back and rechecked my camping area to see if I'd left anything. I hadn't. Unfortunately, that feeling didn't last.  

I felt very strong for the first half of the day, and was just cruising. It was ridiculously cold, though, and my water kept freezing (even in my insulated camelbak tube). The wind was what was really bad, though. I saw one 6-7 foot long branch fall in front of me, so after that I kept glancing up when the wind was strong. It was so cold. Kept hearing weird noises, and eventually realized it was from branches rubbing together. Also saw a deer. First wildlife besides squirrels and woodpeckers. 

I burned out after the first 7 miles though. I kept thinking "If I'd only walked a few more miles last night..." The last several were just cold. I had some honey Flex had given me because it was heavy, so every time I came to a hill I took a shot of honey to boost my spirits (and energy). And to reduce the weight. The kids all passed me eventually, of course. When I got to the Deep Gap turnoff, it was .3 miles down to the shelter, and I considered pushing the last 3.6 to Dicks Creek to try and catch a ride to the Blueberry Hostel, but I was out of water so I decided to go down to the shelter anyway. Figured I'd be the only one there, but ran into Lumberjack by the stream. Him, PA, and Flex were staying here, also. We built a fire and ate dinner. I was getting worried about Hard-to-kill Phil, but 3x5, the Vietnam vet, showed up and he had seen him. He eventually showed up and was fine. Later on, 4 fingers showed up with a funny story. He stopped for lunch at the last shelter. After he started walking again, he ran into two hikers, who asked him "are you a southbound hiker?" At which point he realized he had been walking the wrong way for the past mile. Going to bed early, so I can catch that ride in the morning. Really hope it warms up. It's been sleeting. 

Freezing at Deep Gap

On Rocky Mountain

So today was pretty good. Left out of Low Gap, much easier hiking for most of the day. Walked with Flex the first half of the day. Time and distance move much faster when talking to some one. We stopped for lunch on Blue Mountain, was a gorgeous view, and if I had all the time in the world would have stayed there all day. But on we trucked. She had a bottle of honey that she didn't want because it was heavy, so I took it. Really good honey. She also gave me a piece of maple syrup candy (she's from Vermont). After lunch we split up. Flex is a speed demon, and she went on ahead. She was planning on staying at Unicoi Gap. I was intending to go to the cheese factory, or maybe farther. When I got to Unicoi, no one was there so I assumed everyone had caught a ride into town. I was half right, as PA System and Lumberjack had done so. I trudged on. The next mountain, Rocky (really), went on forever. Much of it was by one of the prettiest mountain streams I've ever seen, and I considered filling my bottle, but I had water in my camelbak so figured I was okay since there was a source in a couple more miles. At the top of Rocky there was a side trail, and the guide book was sort of vague about some great view, so I dropped my bag on the trail and walked off with my camera. Flex was camping there, so I said hi. I was pretty surprised, since I thought she was in town. Went back and got my stuff and started on, then got to thinking about it and didn't feel right about leaving her by herself, asked her if she would prefer company, which she said yes, so I camped also. It was a pretty nice spot, since the wind was down. But since I didn't have any water, I had to walk back down the mountain over a mile. Did it without my pack, but that still sucked. Should have listened to that little voice the first time. Right after I got back, PA and Lumberjack arrived carrying Hard-to-kill Phil's pack. The three of them grew up together. Hard-to-kill (HTK) arrived not too long afterward. PA did a shakedown of HTK's stuff. And realized that most of his clothing was cotton. When they get to Hiawasee they are going to get him new stuff.  The guy is really sticking it out, though he usually looks miserable when I see him.  Then Lumberjack tried to build a fire in the middle of our tents, until I explained to him what embers do to tent material. Apparently I'm the responsible one. Like herding cats. The worst is if I'd known they were behind I could have been 3 or 4 more miles down the road. The good is that they're good people and entertaining  company. While I might prefer some solitude, I really can't complain about the quality of what I have. 

Me somewhat exasperated on Rocky Mountain. Pretty views, though. 

Mardi Gras on the AT!

Woke up this morning at Neels Gap. Which was good since that is where I went to bed at. Usually a good thing. I think I forgot to mention my run in with the Granite Gear sales rep. He comes up to me and compliments me on my pack. We talk for a bit and he sees my tent and asks me if it is a Big Agnes tent. I tell him no and proceed to tell him about how my tent had better reviews and fit my needs better. He's getting visibly upset. Turns out he's the Big Agnes rep, also. Eh. I didn't tell him my next choice would have been a Mountain Hardwear. To be fair, BA has some great tents and several thru-hikers here have them.

Today was spectacularly amazing. First got some beads for Mardi Gras from Bangerang, and several of us wore them while hiking today. When I left the hostel, I ran into Baltimore Jack, a well known former thru-hiker. He pointed out the shoe tree (which I'd completely missed the night before) and took a couple pictures of me going through the famous Neels Gap arch. I walked into another world. 

The heavy fog last night, combined with the strong wind and the freezing temperatures covered all of the trees with this incredible frost. It was like nothing I'd seen before. I stopped dozens of times to take pictures and gawk, but I don't think the pictures will do it justice. I wish I had the words to describe it. I think this is what frost rime is, but I'm not sure. Delicate wings of frost waved out from the branches and leaves. Some of the most spectacular sights were the spider webs. 

Also got some great trail magic from King Tut, who had food and hot drinks, plus knit hats. I passed on the knit hat, I just didn't want anything more to carry, but I think most everyone else grabbed one. They were pretty cool. 

Right now I am at Low Gap. Not sure offhand how far, but around 10 or 11 miles. The 2% mark. There is a shelter here but I like my tent. Even though there are giant chunks of ice periodically falling off the trees and hitting my little home. When they hit the shelter they make quite a racket. There is a hiker in the shelter who was an infantryman in Vietnam. Said he knew some 173rd guys. I think he said he was with 1/98. He was wearing the same Asolo boots I wore in the Korengal, which is why I started talking to him. Speaking of, I think my Korengal legs are coming back, very slowly. One of these hills reminded me of the walk up from Babyal. Ah, good times. 

Flex and PA System (formerly Brash) are here, and a few other faces I recognize. PA System is a good name for him because he's the loudest man I've ever met, and he's always talking. Today while I was eating lunch, I can hear him coming up the trail with his buddy Ross. "They're in this boat, with Prince Caspian, trying to find the nine lords..." He is relating the plot of all the Narnia books as they walk. You sort of want to hate him, but he's just such a funny, friendly, and awesome guy.

Four-fingers is here. He cut his finger to the bone while shaving kindling the other day, and had to hike 17 miles to get a ride to the doctor. Tough son of a gun from Alabama. He was just telling me about an 11 foot alligator he caught. 

I like coming into camp. There are always cries of "Midnight!" and "It's Midnight Sparkle!" And usually at least one "It's Some Kind of Fantasy!" which is apparently my secondary name. Or as Flex says it's now my trademark. I can live with it. 

Me with some frost in the background. Hard to see how cool it was. Took a lot of  pictures with my actual camera.