Events.

Quite a bit happened today. It was a pretty miserable day, actually. Pretty high on my AT worst days list. Not all bad of course, there were some good moments. Just also a high percentage of bad ones, as well. 

First off the weather was unpleasant. It was just bad. Cold and rainy. I am so very tired of being cold. All morning. 

We went over Dragon's Tooth today, several really cool jagged stone monoliths that resembled the bottom teeth of a monster. And it was. I think the descent would have been challenging but fun in good weather. In the cold wind and rain it was more of a nightmare. 

The wind kept whipping my poncho around my legs as I tried to climb down steep rocks and traversing shallow ledges. The difficulty was compounded by holding hiking poles, wearing a pack, my broken frame digging into my back, the rocks being wet, the aforementioned poncho, and most worryingly, cold hands that were numb and slow to respond. I was very deliberate with every move. 

At the bottom of the mountain is Four Pines hostel. An odd place, it's just a 3 car garage that was converted into a place to stay. The story of how it came into existence is interesting. The proprietor, Joe, used to work at a store down the road (this store is why I came here, I needed food). One day a thru-hiker came in and asked if he knew anyone willing to give him a ride. Joe, being a good ol' boy, offered him a ride. When the hiker got in the cab of his truck, Joe told him "Man, you sure stink." So the hiker told him of the AT. Joe took him to his place first and let him use the shower in his garage, and eventually let him stay there. The hiker told him, "This sure would be a good hostel," to which Joe replied, "What the **** is a hostel?" As told by Joe. The rest is history, now he stays busy, running it as a donation only place. He charges for some stuff, such as laundry and deliveries. 

A lot of hikers are here. The Machine, Survivorman, Dinosaur, Squirrel (both of them), Listen, Violet, Quailman, Icicle, Treefrog, and several others. Even Bangerang showed up, though he's flip flopping and hiking south at the moment. All witness to the drama that unfolded tonight. 

Before the "drama," resupplied at a convenience store. Needed two days worth of food, pretty much got Pop-tarts and snack cakes, and cost as much as my 4-5 day resupplies run. Have to eat, though. Did get some gas station pizza. 

Back at the hostel, we played some games of Diamonds. I think it's starting to spread, several people really enjoy it now and are wanting to play. Joe came in after a while and challenged everyone to either chess or cornhole. He was driving some people somewhere, and the game would happen when he came back. Free laundry would be the prize if you beat him in cornhole ($6 otherwise). 

Dinosaur, Listen, and Squirrel had never played cornhole before, so I taught them how to play. Listen is extremely competitive (which makes her fun to play with) and took to it quickly. The other two seemed to enjoy themselves, but did not appear too enthused. When Joe came back, I played him in cornhole. I beat him. So yay, free laundry, right? Sigh.  Listen challenged him also, but lost. She played a good game, though. Joe then had to drive some section hikers to town. 

So we start playing cards again. And we were using the register to keep score. A fairly routine practice on the AT. But the registers here are pretty much sacred to Joe. Sigh. So here's how it went down. 

I'm keeping score, because someone else asked me to. They handed me the notebook (plain ol' notebook, but actually a register). We're playing cards. Joe comes in. Of course he's obviously drunk. I'm batting a pretty good percentage of interactions while hostel owners are inebriated. And he flips out about the register. Aggressively. 

My first thought was to defuse the situation, and I made the attempt, but he was having none of it. Some of the other hikers were attempting to calm him down, but he was having none of that, either. His ire is at me, of course, since I'm the one defacing his relic. 

After a fairly considerable amount of cussing from him, I finally snap and start yelling back. I really thought it was going to be physical for a minute (dude probably would have kicked my tail, he's older but probably twice my size!). 

Finally while other people are talking to him I just start packing my things. Then he tells me to get out of his place, and I say "what do you think I'm doing?" While I'm packing he calms down and it's obvious he feels bad and embarrassed about the situation. He leaves after more or less apologizing to everyone else. He wasn't angry anymore, anyway. I'm so tired of drunks. I think I'm only going to stay in places that don't allow drinking from now on. Well, depending on how cold and wet it is. 

I'm still packing, but after the door shuts literally everyone in the place (maybe one or two exceptions) is asking me to stay. Which makes me feel good, but now I'm embarrassed by my reaction, plus I'm so amped up on adrenalin that I'm shaking. So I'm still going to go, but they continued asking me to stay and finally one person says, "look, if you leave right now everyone here is going to feel awful. Please stay." So I did. Which might mean I'm trespassing right now. I'm not up on that law. 

I apologized to everyone for my part, and of course everyone tells me not to worry about it, that it was either justified or reasonable. But it's not okay. It doesn't really matter whether my actions were reasonable, I don't think they were right. 

Joe loves his registers. They tell him who and how many hikers he helps each year, and I believe they really are sacred to him. I think they give him purpose. And I think that is something every person needs. By defacing his register, however inadvertent, I disrespected his self appointed purpose in life. 

So I feel I should have apologized to him repeatedly and listened to him berate me. Sigh. It's hard to be the puppy who rolls over when your natural tendencies plus training and experience wants you to growl back and go for the throat. The guy really seemed cool. I was hoping to play him in a game of chess tomorrow. Plus I wanted the free laundry I won. I don't think I'm going to bring that up, now. I am going to attempt to apologize to him in the morning, but probably after I'm packed and on my way out. Seems smarter that way. C'est la vie. 

Dragon's Tooth. 

After traversing Dragon's Tooth. Rain had mostly stopped. The sign is the sign urging caution. 

Listen playing with the hostel cat. He has an inappropriate name so I will call him "Kitty."

Seven Years Lucky

The Appalachian Trail is one of the longest, most rewarding, and most challenging individual endeavors that I have ever undertaken. Seven years ago, however, I began an even more rewarding, and yes, challenging endeavor. And I'm expecting it to be the longest lasting thing that I ever do. Happy  Anniversary Mrs. Sparkle. I love you more than anything in this world. 

Another reason to celebrate, today is Dinosaur's birthday. Happy Birthday, Dino! I'm hoping to get her an ice cream cake. I don't know if they have those in Germany. 

Been a long day. About 21 miles. I'm trying to remember this morning. Oh yeah. Started before I woke up. Last night sort of late, an older section hiker named Fringe came into Laurel shelter, so I moved my spot over for him and he ended up where I was. No big deal, but this happened after Princess went to bed. Her, Ranger, and Rocketman tented last night, and are early risers. When they were leaving, she decided to mess with me by kissing me on the forehead, but she thought Fringe was me. Apparently it was pretty funny, but I was asleep. 

Lot of rain today. Heavy, cold rain. But before it hit came across the Keffer Oak, one of the oldest oak trees on the AT. There is one bigger somewhere up north. Big tree. 

Lot of people took cover from the rain in the second shelter (think it was Niday) we came across. Beandip and her mother stayed there today. Dino drew one of her drawings with a poll for whether they should change their names from Beandip and Mama Bean to Soul Destroyer and Spirit Crusher. I voted yes. 

We played another game of Diamonds while waiting for the rain to stop. Senator, H2O, Dino, me, and Listen. Senator won again. He just got out of the Navy, where he was a diver. When the rain stopped, he and H2O took off, as did Listen and Squirrel. I think Boomer and Smudge took off before it finished. After a few minutes, Dinosaur, Violet, and myself took off. Long uphills today. And did I mention rain?

In a dry spell, I stopped on a ridge line where I had signal while the others went on. I was freezing, but I managed to get a call through to my wife. It was good to talk to her, even though my teeth were chattering (slight exaggeration there). 

This was on Brushy Mountain. There's a wide grassy path up part of the mountain, that leads to the Audie Murphy monument. Boomer and Smudge were camped right in the middle of the path, which sounds odd but was actually a great spot. I considered doing so myself. Didn't though, and as I talked to them a deluge arrived. I got my poncho on before it hit hard, so that was nice. I rarely bother, but it was chilly, and I didn't think I'd dry off before getting to the shelter. Unfortunately it was raining hard when I reached the monument. I didn't realize the AT ran past it, or I might have brought something, like a 173rd patch to leave there. Lot of mementos there. 

Had a little trail magic. Cooler of drinks. I had a Dr. Pepper. Still carrying the can until I get to a trash can, should be tomorrow. Then had one more hill to go to get to the shelter. It got dark, but for whatever reason I decided to try to get to the shelter without my headlamp. Maybe not very bright, but I succeeded. Tomorrow will be a short day as I have to resupply. 

Me, somewhere in VA. 

This is Chef. 

The very large Keffer Oak. Hard to understand its size here. 

Me in the first deluge. 

Audie Murphy monument in the rain. 

The hordes.

Made a mistake today, I'm afraid. Stopped too early. Just under 15 miles. Now there is a horde of people at the shelter. I bet we are approaching 40 people. I could have gone on to the next shelter, but this place, Laurel shelter, was pretty nice. Water is very near, there's a privy, and the thru-hikers that were here were all friends. 

Dinosaur, Beandip, and Spirit Crusher are here, and so are Rocketman, Princess, and Ranger. If I haven't said so before, I really like them. Ranger and Princess are siblings, and both are very outgoing.  Princess is straight up exuberant. Rocketman is a little more reserved, yet still quite personable.

Thin Mint is also here, and I've forgiven him for taking my hiking poles this morning. Same brand and color, but different models. We are similar heights, so he didn't notice for first 5 miles. I finally caught up to him around lunch time. 

There is a college group here from Canada. And a new hiker walks in every few minutes, it seems. Listen and Squirrel are here, Violet made it in, Boomer, Senator, H2O, Smudge, and some others, plus a few section hikers. Party. Gonna be hard to go to sleep. 

Played a couple games of Diamonds. Ranger, me, and Dinosaur played the first one. I won that one. The second was me, Dinosaur, Senator, and H2O. Senator won. The two of them are cousins from Ohio. They were witty, I'll give them that. 

I enjoyed the game, and I think Dinosaur really likes Diamonds. My hope is that it will spread the length of the Trail and become the official card game of the AT. Then I will finally have accomplished something with my life. 

Selfie near Windy Rock. 

Violet, Dinosaur, and Ranger. 

 

Oh Captain, My Captain

Somewhat over 16 miles today. Didn't really pay attention to the guidebook at all today. Just wanted to make sure I hit up The Captain's. 

Today was a beautiful day. Blue sky, warm weather. The section hikers who stayed with us were planning on heading to the next shelter down, so we figured we'd see them there. Pretty nice guys. Took off a little after Beandip, Spirit Crusher (she absolutely hates when I call her that) and Dino, but ran into the girls pretty quickly. 

I decided to walk with them today. I knew I probably wouldn't make as much mileage as I'd intended, but I really like their company. Also, there's always the possibility that I might not see them again, so I wanted to spend the day with them. It was a good one, if a bit long. We definitely took our time, and took some very long breaks, which of course is my favorite part. 

Had my mind blown today, for the second time in the same way. Just as shocked as when I met Dragonborn and found out she was a female. Dinosaur is into LARPing. First, I didn't know Germany had Live Action Role Playing, and second, I never expected a young lady to be involved.  I asked her a bunch of questions about it, and it kind of sounds fun. She got into it because they used to take a bunch of kids to the events, and she picked it up from there. If I'm ever in Germany again maybe I'll get her to take me to one. Not sure I've got the guts to go to one in America. 

When we got to the next shelter, the section hikers were there, and they'd run out to the store and brought back some trail magic, Gatorade and Twix. They went from being pretty nice to outstanding gentleman at that point. I can easily be bought. Beandip had an interesting observation about Trail Magic. She said, "Basically all these nice people are giving us food and stuff because we decided to walk in the woods."  Good point. 

Our next stop was The Captain's. The Captain is a random guy who has a house right beside the AT, but across a wide stream. So obviously, given that scenario, you build a zip line across the creek and have an open invitation for all hikers to come and camp in your yard. This guy leaves a fridge stocked with cokes on his back porch, has several very friendly dogs, left his wifi password posted so we could use it, and is just all around awesome. Unfortunately, he wasn't home. These things were all things he left out for thru-hikers, and we definitely partook. Just playing with the dogs was good for our spirits, I think. Wish we could have met him. 

We didn't stay. Wanted to, but at some point you actually have to make mileage, which was something I haven't done much of in past two days. So we pressed on. And immediately regretted it. Right after The Captain's, there was a steep hill that was one mile long. Very unpleasant.  

Eventually we made the next shelter, though, where Thin Mint, Grasshopper, and Resistance were staying. I gave Resistance her name earlier in the day. She was this far in without a trail name. She also resisted the lure of town, so with all this resistance going on, I told her that should be her name. She seems okay with it so far. 

Dino and I played two more games of Diamonds. I won the first, though it was close, and she won the second. It was tied up going into the last hand, but she pulled it off. Everyone else was already in bed, so we racked out, also. I'm going to try to go a little farther than they plan tomorrow, but I really enjoyed hanging out with the foreigners today. 

Dinosaur and Beandip, and hidden behind them is Spirit Crusher. 

Me on the zip line to The Captain's. 

Dinosaur playing with one of the vicious guard dogs. 

Dino's drawing of us on a pirate ship. That's me in the back singing a German pirate song (shanty?). 

Broken equipment and monsoons.

Short day today. Very short, like maybe 7 miles. It was a good one though. 

Started off the day by visiting Rite-Aid, where I picked up some insoles, batteries, and a 50% off chocolate Easter bunny for breakfast. Violet and Survivorman hit up the post office, where Violet got lucky and they were holding her package. 

Our trio split up today, though. Because of the rain, Violet stayed in town. I was supposed to meet Survivorman at a restaraunt for a late breakfast and leave from there, but when I picked up my pack I heard an unpleasant sound. The frame of my pack broke. It had actually broken the day before, but I'd thought something had just slipped out of place. Nope. Actually broke. I fiddled with it and readjusted it well enough to carry, but I'm  worried the crack will spread. The most important item in a backpacking trip is the backpack. Literally, otherwise it wouldn't be a backpacking trip. 

So I called Bill from Pine Mountain Outfitters. He was a tremendous help, contacting Granite Gear for me and finding out who to talk to. I ended up talking to a guy there named Keon who was incredibly easy to work with. The customer service was great, in general. They're shipping me the piece I need, but it won't arrive until around Wed next week. Since I didn't want to wait in one place that long, I had them ship it to Glasgow, Va. About 150 miles up the trail. A 150 miles with a broken backpack? No sweat. 

After getting that all squared away, it was almost noon. Survivorman had already left. I had some lunch and headed out. Into a monsoon. I mean, it was obviously just a strong rain storm. Some lightning and thunder. But it was a deluge. Fun to walk in that stuff. 

At the first shelter out of town, Dinosaur, Beandip, and Mama Beandip (Spirit Crusher) were holed up. This shelter had great views directly in front of it. Grasshopper was also there, as well as three section hikers. I'd planned on pushing farther, but I wouldn't have gone as far as I wanted, and the company was excellent here, so I laid up. Supposed to be beautiful tomorrow. 

Beandip is hilarious, and so is her mother. For example, Dinosaur says something like "everything you say is funny," and Beandip replies "wait 'til I tell you about cancer." And yesterday for breakfast, Violet, who is vegetarian, accidentally ate some eggs with sausage in them. Everyone at the table is quiet, because they don't know how she's going to take it, and Beandip says, "Don't worry, it was eco-friendly meat." Then she grins real big and continues, "His name was Steve." And earlier I said something about everyone making mistakes, and Mama Bean points at Beandip and says, "Here's mine."  I was dying laughing. According to them, it's the other daughter who's really funny. I'm going to have to visit them someday. 

The three of us and Rabbit played Diamonds, which Dino won. I barely stayed out of last place.  Foreigners are taking over. Dino and I played two more games after everyone else went to bed.  I thought of them as WWI and WWII.  I won both, but she should have won the first one. She is also an awesome lady. 

And now I am going to sleep. 

In between bursts of rain and mist. Was a real pretty day for about an hour. 

Pearisburg, VA.

Interesting juxtaposition of communal living and commercialization today. Woods Hole was a pretty idyllic place, actually. They market themselves as a communal experience. I think if the night had been colder then there would have been less good humour, as the converted barn they used as a hostel was a bit drafty. However, the beds were quite comfortable, and I slept excellent. 

Got up early this morning, and just sort of hung out with The Machine, Princess, Survivorman, and other early risers. They made us coffee, of which I drank a considerable amount. I relaxed and got in everyone's way in the kitchen while Neville (proprietor) and her conscripted help (Princess) finished breakfast. I played with their cat, Mei-Mei. 

Breakfast was fancy and delicious. Some sort of French toast with homemade bread and homegrown eggs and sausage. Very good. A very fun and wonderful group of people there. After breakfast there was morning yoga, which I was going to turn down until I thought about the oddity of doing yoga on the AT. So I did it. It was fun. I mostly harassed Mama Bean (Spirit Crusher). The Woods Hole experience was overall quite enjoyable, though I did think their new for this year rates were somewhat high. Not exorbitant though. Didn't leave until almost noon, what with the company and doing laundry. Goat didn't leave, as he took a seasonal "internship" with them. I think he'll enjoy it. 

Walked an easy, beautiful 10 miles into Pearisburg. Violet walked with Survivorman and me. One of the best parts of the day was when we ran into Beandip and Dinosaur. We sat down in the middle of the trail and had lunch and talked for probably an hour. Very fun people. 

Violet ran into a pretty major issue. Like me, she had a 2013 guidebook. She'd been sent a box of resupply to the Rendezvous Hotel. The Rendezvous had burned down last year. We aren't sure where her box is but we are going to check the post office tomorrow morning. Had difficulty finding a place to stay. Some giant construction job has most rooms in town filled up, but one hotel built an addition to use as a hostel. As hostels go, it's pretty nice. 

Ate dinner at a Mexican place with Santa, Survivorman, and Violet. Pretty good food. Lot of hikers in town, though kind of scattered around. I have to finish shopping in the morning. Pretty tired, and I need to get some random items tomorrow, such as new insoles (hopefully) and batteries. 

The bunkhouse this morning. Rather lovely. 

Mei-Mei the cat. 

Santa and Violet

The outhouse. Quaint. 

Selfie. 

Violet at one of the best overlooks. 

The last view of Goat. Appropriately, his new digs will be in the old goat house. 

April 23

Pretty good hiking day. Another twenty miles, plus a couple for side trips. First time doing back to back twenty pluses, so we'll see how my feet are in the morning. 

Woke up this morning to a sprained ankle. The swelling in both my feet had receded, but my right ankle was noticeably tender. Not sure when I injured it, and not sure how I didn't notice. I figure either my feet were so swollen that it acted as its own brace, or maybe there was so much pain in my feet that I didn't notice a little increase. Sure was sore this morning, though. 

Left my solitary camp site at around 0730, and about an hour later ran into Survivorman. We hiked together for the entire day. I was planning on staying at Woods Hole Hostel, and he was going to the shelter two miles past. 

Pretty early on ran into Beandip and her mum, Spirit Crusher. Not her real trail name, just what I was calling her. I can't remember what nonsense I was spouting, but she corrected me and said something couldn't be done, crushing my spirit. She thinks it's too negative (she really is sweet), everyone else thought it was hilarious. 

Ran into other people, Violet and Santa included. Violet suggested not staying in the hostel, but the guidebook describes it as a little slice of heaven.  Plus my phone battery was almost dead and so were my Powerpacks. 

Stopped by the Wapiti shelter and Dismal Falls, the scenes of some extremely unpleasant events many years ago. Couple of murders and some shootings. Pretty places, particularly Dismal Falls. 

Several beautiful views today, also. When we got to the Woods Hole, Survivorman stopped with me, since he tweaked his knee and decided to cut his day a couple miles short of planned. We are going to walk into Pearisburg tomorrow for resupply, about 10 miles. Maybe catch a hotel there, though we've been told there are no vacancies. 

The hostel is interesting. From first appearance, it's pretty much what I expected. It's kind of like what I imagine a commune is like. It's an old farmstead, and the bunkhouse is an old barn, with a bunch of beds in the loft. Not a very updated old barn, at that. It has everything I really want, though. Power, an outdoor shower with hot water, laundry ($5), and Cokes. I actually have been drinking mango juice. And the mattress is the best I've slept on. 

The house, however, is lovely. Those rooms were already taken. Apparently the owner also is a masseuse who you can book, and they do free yoga classes in the morning. At first I said I wasn't interested in either, but the utter bizarreness of doing yoga on a farm with a bunch of smelly hikers may convince me to sample the experience. I'm pretty lazy, though, so might not. Kind of irritated, though, since the guidebook said they had pizza, and they don't. 

When we rolled up to the hostel, saw a lot more people that I hadn't seen in a while. Some of whom I was very happy to see. Hugs all around. The Machine, Dinosaur, Goat, and some others who I either barely knew or hadn't met. Beandip, Spirit Crusher, Low Gear, Rabbit, Trix, Flipper, Chef, Violet and Santa were all here.  Stayed up later than I should have. I'm falling asleep right now so I'll try to finish this tomorrow. 

So, just realized I left my watch in the shower. Better make sure I get it before I leave. 

Me on a bridge. 

Dismal Falls. Lot of camping and a swimming hole. I had too many miles to go to partake. 

Me on a mountaintop. Never got its name. 

Survivorman scrambling in his kilt. 

L to R Spirit Crusher, Beandip, Rabbit, and Survivorman. Lunch in a clearing. 

Hostel cat on a bongo. 

Hostel cat and Santa. Kind of obvious where he got the name, huh? He also carries a bag of candy he gives out. 

Six hundred miles.

Give or take a few feet. I am currently (April 22) camped on the 600 mile marker. I mean, there's not actually a marker, just a campsite where the guide book says is 600 miles. Close enough for me. 

My tent broke this morning. Minor issue, some of the fabric holding one side of the cross strut that holds open the vents on top ripped. I don't think it will affect anything except that I might get some additional condensation on the inside. C'est la vie. 

So at about the 7-8 mile mark today, I came across this lovely river bridge. Really pretty spot. This is also the first water since the shelter, so when I got there four other hikers were already there, all girls. While I'm filling up my water, two more girls show up, six total. I'm the only boy. While I'm treating my water, some of them start talking about bathing in the river. Then they started talking about how much clothing, if any, to wear. I had planned on taking a break there, but I stood up, said goodbye and took off, before my ears could get any redder. 

Good walking today, but water was sparse again. Luckily (providently), I had that water bottle the day hikers gave me so I filled it up also and got through with no issue. Came across a trail magic cooler. Was hopeful, but when I opened it only found trash and empty Easter eggs. Figured I'd carry it back to the road so whoever had left it could get it easier, and when I picked it up, one piece of gum was behind it, still sealed in wrapper. That good deed worked out. 

Jumped a bunch of turkeys, only saw two but sounded like a bunch taking off. Two hens. Other than that, just a whole bunch of gray squirrels. 

The last shelter was at 23.8 miles from where we started. When I showed up there, a bunch of people were already there, but only Violet and Santa who started at the same place as me. Survivorman, Thin Mint, and a few people who I hadn't met were there. Jigsaw, Just Helen, and I think their daughter, and an older gentleman named Lost and Found. I think they all stayed at either the shelter in between or maybe in Bland, VA. I skipped the towns, went right between Bland and Bastian when I crossed 77. I had already planned to walk an additional mile down the road so I could camp at the 600 mark. Violet and Santa thought that was an awesome idea, but they were already set up so I left alone. And still am. In my lonely tent in the dark. 

So the other day, Haiku tells me that he knows night hiking doesn't bother me, but that he doesn't like it. He says, "it's not the dark, it's what's in the dark."  I'm a bloody Sky Soldier from Battle Co. There is nothing in these woods badder than that... At least, that's what I thought until a couple of nights ago when that second pair of eyes raised up and I realized.. Yes, yes there is something badder in the woods. Mama bears. Probably a lot of other things. So I wish someone else had camped with me. 

I'm going to resupply in Pearisburg, if all goes according to plan. Down to packets of tuna, cheddar, one pastry, and some tortillas. There's Trent's Grocery about 5 miles in tomorrow, might stop there for a bite, but it's half a mile off the trail and I am trying to do 20 tomorrow to a hostel that's supposed to be all sorts of awesome. We'll see. I did 24.8 miles on the AT today, 25 something if you count the side trails. 

The pretty river I had wanted to take a break at. 

Hope!

False hope. Sigh. 

View above highway 77. 

Me and a tree. 

18 more miles

Took me near all day to do it, also. A few more people showed up last night. First Listen and Squirrel, two girls hiking together, came in, and Santa arrived a little later. I hadn't met Squirrel and Listen before, though I did see them in passing. All three of them were fun to talk with. 

I was the first one out of camp this morning, but still didn't leave until around 9. It was pretty walking this morning, but it was along an open ridge line and there was no protection at all from that sun. Sure was hot today. 

Met the president of the Piedmont Appalachian Trail Hikers (PATH), who maintains this section of trail. I'd met two other members the other day trimming rhododendron branches. Told him I'd send an email when I finish, sure hope I remember. 

Had a late lunch at Chestnut Knob Shelter. Nicest shelter yet. Completely enclosed, with bunk beds and an indoor table. Plus, the view there was spectacular. Ran into the Lorax (formerly Tog) and Violet there. Violet passed me on the trail earlier, while I was refilling water. Everything she wore, including glasses and backpack, was purple. Thus her name, I suppose. 

The second half of the day took forever and I really don't know why. I mean, I wasn't in much of a rush and took my time. I also called Mrs. Sparkle and sent a few texts when I had signal, and a few other things like that. Eh, oh well. 

Saw a blacksnake. Big one, too. Four and a half to five feet, I'd say. Got some pictures but not very good ones, I'm afraid. Not the biggest one I've seen, but was the biggest I've seen in a while. Also saw more vultures, from eye level with their tree. These ignored me. 

Water is becoming a lot more scarce. I mean, it's still around, just longer distances. Before VA hardly ever went 5 miles without water. Tomorrow is a stretch of 9 miles. I was running pretty low this evening, when I came across a dayhiker couple. The lady gave me a bottle of water. Pretty nice of her, I thought. They told me about Burkes Garden, which is I guess where I was walking through. They recommended I look it up, so I will when I have a decent internet connection. Thumbprint of a God, I think they called it. 

Hiked in the dark for an hour or so before making it to Jenkins Shelter. Got here, and not only was the shelter full, but there's probably a dozen or more tents set up. Luckily it's a pretty good spot with lots of space. I guess so many people are here due to the lack of water, and the source here is supposed to be pretty good. Hoping to cover some miles tomorrow. 

Santa waking up this morning. 

Me up on the mountain. Knob, actually. 

Ultra Zero and Rainbow Bright, the trail angels who saved me from dehydration. 

Easter

Today has been a very short distance day, but a pleasant one. 

I did not sleep well last night. I configured my tent and sleeping system for a warm night, and for whatever reason never changed it when the chill set in. Silliness. Or laziness, if you will. 

When I woke up this morning, I offered to read an Easter passage to everyone left in camp. No one was interested, so I read Matthew 28 out loud to myself. Seemed the right thing to do. 

Beautiful scenery today. Idyllic farm houses and large open pastures framed by the mountains. Quite lovely. Lot of warnings to not get off the AT also. Apparently a lot of private property and not always good relationships with the owners. 

Super tired today. I actually dozed off at the shelter I stopped for lunch in. So I came across this lovely spot next to the creek, and set up my tent. Just under 9 miles, which will make this my nero. Think I'll go to sleep, even though it's only 6 pm. 

At camp this morning. 

Thought this was a pretty scene. 

Moss covered bridge. 

My tent, set up to let in max air. 

End of the first quarter.

Sort of a late start to the day. Got out of camp a little before 9. The loud group from last night (yellow blazers) were all still there.  One guy had a throwing knife he was practicing against the shelter walls with. Hippie with a throwing knife. Odd. They were going into Marion for the day. I hope they spent the night there. 

Easy walking most of the day. The morning was just a smooth footpath through the forests. No spectacular views or strenuous hiking. 

Stopped for lunch at the Chatfield shelter, and realized there that "The Barn" I'd been hearing about was in Atkins, a few miles up. The famous/infamous "Hiker Burger" is there, a full pound of meat. A lot of people were planning on staying at a hotel there, but it was only 12 miles so I'd planned on pushing on. 

Between me and the Hiker Burger was some really pretty country. Big rolling pastures, spreads of wild flowers, and stately homes. Saw a sign that said there was a hiker box at the school, and was very confused. Didn't realize the AT went by a school. Turns out it was an old one room schoolhouse. From late 1700s, if I recall correctly. It wasn't actually a hiker box, either, as it was actually Trail Magic! Some jerk had left an empty Mt. Dew can, though. The school was pretty interesting, and I spent some time there, taking pictures and such. A lot of things in there were items my Papaw had told me about. 

I drank a Mt. Dew while looking around, signed the registers, and left, taking the other empty can with me also, as there was a trash can right outside. As I'm walking out, I meet a thru-hiker, Low Gear. First time meeting him, and I'm holding two empty cans from a trail magic box. "I only took one! Promise!" He obviously didn't care either way, but was friendly. 

The AT ran right past the school's front door, but there was a sign for a "Settler's Museum" a few hundred feet away. I started down the trail, but then turned around and went to the museum. I wasn't in a rush. 

The museum was pretty small, but there was an older lady there who gave me and another gentleman a tour. I found it fascinating, and really wished Papaw Sparkle was there. I want to bring him by there, see if he can identify some of their relics. At least two items they have they don't actually know what they are. I took a guess on one and said it was a cobbler's bench. I said, "That's my best guess."  The lady looks at me and says, "That's a terrible guess. No." I like her. 

I caught up with Shy Bear before reaching Atkins. We walked together a while and then beat a train together. And there was The Barn. Our Hiker Burgers awaited. First I stopped at a gas station to get a chocolate milk, glass bottle coke, and a root beer. I saved the root beer for later. 

While I was doing that Shy Bear talked to two yellow blazers. Seriously, before yesterday I hadn't met one, now everyone I see is doing it. I may not have explained yellow blazing, I can't remember. It's when you hitchhike farther up the trail, instead of hiking it. Yellow blazes for the roadway. Another way of saying it is "cheating." I don't mind someone doing it, except that most of them are going to claim that they thru-hiked the AT. That bothers me, though it probably shouldn't. It's like stolen valor. 

Anyway, Low Gear was in The Barn. He ate the Hiker Burger. Both Shy Bear and I went with the Hillbilly Burger. It was pretty good, I guess. I was expecting something spectacular. I had cell signal so I stayed after they both left and talked to my wife. 

I'd planned on camping at a site about 3 miles out of town, and got there about half an hour before dark. Unfortunately for me, the campsite had been demolished. Just a picnic table, a privy, and what looked like the foundation to a platform for tents. Unusable. The next campsite was another 3 miles, or so. Night hiking again. 

Was pretty pleasant. Until I stopped to check my guidebook. I heard some heavy movement, so I shined my headlamp into the woods, and there was a pair of eyes staring at me. Pretty high off the ground. I think it was a bear, from size and behaviour. I got my camera out, but it was too dark. I took some photos anyway, hoping the flash would illuminate the bear. I then took one (one!) step forward, and immediately a bad word went through my head.  A second set of eyes looked up at me. If this was a cub and mother I might have been in some trouble. They stared at me, I stared at them, and finally I started walking on down the trail, with an exceptionally wary eye on my backtrail. 

Honestly, I'm not sure they were bears. Just shining green forward facing eyes that were high off the ground. Can't think of anything else. I made it to the next campsite, and right now I'm falling asleep while writing this. Only about 18 miles today, but it was fun. Also, today I passed the one fourth mark. Just three quarters to go. 

Lindamood one room schoolhouse. 

Papaw Sparkle was telling me about these toys just the other day. 

List of punishments at the old school. Pretty entertaining. 

Me right outside of Atkins. 

Easy walking, good food, great company.

So today started off wonderfully, as I woke up in a bed in a beautiful home.  Brian and Rita were superb hosts. I'm trying to think of a way to describe how they treated me, and all I can say is that they treated me like family. Brian drove me to Marion so I could resupply at Walmart, then drove me to Subway where I got a foot-long sub for later, and then to Hardee's for breakfast. Saw a peacock. Beautiful bird. 

When we got back I packed up, but kind of lolly gagged. Talked with Brian and Rita a while, and honestly didn't want to move on. Finally did, though. 

I ran into Jerry and Sherri at the trailhead, they had been doing trail magic. Those two are incredibly staunch allies of the Appalachian Trail, and were the instigators to turn Marion into a Trail town. Jerry is like an AT encyclopedia. Sherri is doing a lot with the Warriorhike program, also. Met two of their sons, and was quite impressed with both of them. Stand up fellows. Everyone I've met in this area has been a wonderful person. Nobody even made a comment about how I smelled last night at church. 

Then I walked fast. Easy terrain. Nine miles went by fast, and I probably should  have moved on, but my foot was hurting and you can order pizza from the Partnership shelter. I mean, how cool is that? I added my pizza onto Rocketman, Princess, and Ranger's order. Ate half of my sub while waiting. Haiku showed up, he'd been off the trail for a while. There was also Thin Mint and the section hiker Crooked Stick (Crook). Crook's son showed up, a pretty cool guy. He does a lot of canoeing and was telling me about a great fishing spot we are going to be hiking by. I'm going to tell my dad about it. 

Had a really good afternoon just hanging out with those guys. Several other people showed up, but they seemed to already have their own groups and were not too interested in integrating. Shy Bear hung out for a while, waiting for his buddies. He's lactose intolerant (maybe), so I gave him pizza with cheese and feta on it as an experiment. He was going to share a room with his buddies. Interesting to see how that goes. Redwood also socialized. Fun guy to talk to. 

That was that. Everyone I know is in bed, and the newcomers are being a little loud around the campfire. They're just having a good time talking. Right now several of them are trying to justify their yellow blazing today. To each their own. I'm writing this and then going to sleep. Like now. 

Brian and Rita in their gorgeous home. 

Trail saints Jerry, Sherri, and their son Ethan. 

Partnership shelter. Pizza and a shower (actually the showers were turned off, sadly). 

A drawing Dinosaur left in the trail register. That's me on the right. 

A good day.

I can't think of the appropriate word for how good a day today has been. Didn't start out that way. Started cold. 

Last night was cold. Below 20 degrees.  Beandip and I were both in our summer bags, rated as 30 degree bags. Her mum had just arrived from Australia, where it's much warmer. We were not particularly set up for this situation. I wore four layers, plus my silk liner. Not enough. We were all huddled for warmth in the shelter corner, and Beandip and I were shivering,  so I pulled my poncho out and covered us with that, too. Helped a little, but it was just a miserably cold night. Not a lot of sleep. 

At 0700 Napoleon woke us up when he came hiking in. He'd hurt his ankle pretty bad, but still walked 34 miles on it yesterday. Apparently the pain woke him up this morning so he figured he might as well start hiking. The one thing everyone says about Napoleon is that he's crazy. Now I do, too. 

The Aussie ladies got up sometime around then and cooked breakfast and packed up, but Beandip, because she's awesome, threw her sleeping bag on top of me while they ate. First time I was warm in forever. It was a sad moment when she finally packed it away. I still refused to poke my head out of my bedroll, but I said bye when they left. 

I did, of course, eventually get up. I was roughly planning on 18 miles today, which would get me within striking distance of Partnership shelter, where you can have pizza delivered (really) and catch a bus to Marion. Before I left Princess, Rocketman, and Ranger came through. They're good people. 

Today was a really great day of hiking. Only problem is I hurt my foot yesterday. Feels like a bruise on the outside edge. Hurts in rocky stuff, which we had some of. But it's not debilitating, just painful. Ran into Cowboy again, a guy who was section hiking. He works in California in the summer and the Virgin Isles in the winter. Guy has it made. 

Met several other section hikers and Hawk, another thru-hiker. Pretty much everyone was headed for Trimpi shelter. When I got there, I gave Beandip her rain cover, which she left behind this morning.  There was a crowd, a good crowd, but still a bunch of people. I decided to move on, since I needed to resupply in Marion and wanted to get back to the trail on the same day. 

Beautiful. This was around 1800, and the next mile was crazy gorgeous. And so green. Nothing to imply that a couple days ago there was a blizzard. About a mile and a half in, came across some trail magic. Food and drink was mostly gone, but I grabbed some minor first aid items I thought I should have. A flyer caught my eye, the church was having a Revival, this week, and the service was at 1900. It was 1830ish, I had just prayed for a place to spend the night, so I figured okay. 

Started to walk the .08 miles, and got picked up by Brian and Rita, a lovely retired couple who ran the trail magic there. We went to church, where I heard a pretty good service. Reminded me of the church I went to on Little Cowan. Love that church. They treated me like family here, I feel like I got just as many handshakes as the preacher. Also talked with Jerry, who started the trail magic here. Another really great guy. If I get the chance I will definitely return. 

I am currently in the guest bedroom of Brian and Rita's stunning log cabin home. They retired and moved out here. They are taking me in to Marion tomorrow morning for resupply, are feeding me, gave me a shower and let me do laundry. Have I said how awesome they are yet? Even more importantly, they let me use their phone to call my wife and tell get happy belated birthday. Apparently my awesome sister was all over that, though, and decorated our place while my wife was away, covering the house with balloons and signs. Glad someone is being awesome. That's it for tonight. Too many blessings had overloaded me, and I'm falling asleep. 

Random prettiness. 

A bridge that creaked alarmingly. 

The odd Christmas tree. No idea who decorated it. 

Beautiful day. 

The trail magic that started my amazing experiences of the evening.