Another miserably hot day with unexpected goodness.

The Three Ridges Mountain is one of my least favorite sections of trail so far. Heck, maybe ever. Steep, covered in loose rock, no shade and few views. Plus it's six miles up with 3000+ elevation change. Just thoroughly unpleasant. Of course, there's a side trail that not only avoids the climb, but also cuts 4 miles off the distance. I didn't take it, since I'm white-blazing, but man was I jealous. Most people I know did take it. Me, Survivorman, and The Machine are the only people I know didn't take it, though I'm sure there are others. 

The only good thing about that climb (besides its end) was the Hanging Rock Overlook. One of the best views yet. There are easier ways to get there, though. Ran into a group of retirees there. A very nice group, mostly from the nearby Wintergreen. A lot of interesting information about the area from them. One gentleman was a former paratrooper, with the 101st, back before they had their wings clipped. I'm going to call him Screaming Eagle. I walked with him for a good ways, couple of miles at least. He kept telling me I could go on if he was slowing me down. I told him it was fine, 'cuz I enjoyed the company. Honestly I was telling myself, "Don't breathe hard, don't breathe hard."  This guy was a septuagenarian, and I didn't want to get shown up. Admittedly, he wasn't carrying a pack, but still over twice my age. That Eagle could hike. When we parted ways he also gave me some ice water. I really don't care much for cold water, but on these hot days it's been extremely refreshing. 

Couple miles farther up ran into some more trail magic. A woman named Cake who'd started hiking this year but got hurt, plus some trail maintainers were at Reeds Gap. Awesome deliciousness. They were also taking photographs of thru-hikers and emailing them to our moms for Mother's Day. I hung out with them for almost an hour, talking and giving my left foot a rest. It's been hurting a while. 

After that was Humpback Mountain, and I wasn't expecting too much difficulty. Pretty easy ascent, and plenty of water. The Trail runs by this old stone wall, and as I'm walking along it I notice a large black dog. Of course, then I realized it was a black bear. Pretty awesome. It had just been raining, and I think he was searching through some old rotten logs. Watched him for a while but then moved on. Right around the corner saw another one! I mean, I suppose it could have been the first one after it moved, but sounds better to say two and I can't differentiate black bears, anyway. 

My foot was killing me, and got those first shooting pains in my shins, so found a place to camp. Ended up beside some Canadians on Humpback. Never saw 'em. They were in their tent and didn't get our before I left. Nice enough to talk to, though. Tomorrow is 12 miles into Waynesboro. Eighteen plus today, hope my feet feel better. 

Moxie getting water at the shelter. 

Hanging Rock Overlook. 

Purdy. 

Ditto. 

Bear. 

Long, hot, thirsty days.

Well at least one day anyway. May 8th was the hottest day we've had so far. I was told it was over 90, but I can't verify. What I can tell you was that it was incredibly sunny with no clouds, breeze, and very little shade. I walked along grassy ridges and fields most of the day. The first water source that was less than a half mile off trail was over 8 miles from the Brown Mountain Creek shelter where I stayed the previous night (side note: Brown Mountain Creek was a former freed slaves community and there were some interesting information boards along the creek. I'd never heard of ash cake before).

That was a hot 8 miles. Happily I ran into a day hiker who was up on the bald. We talked for a bit and after I'd started off again she hollered at me and came running after. She said "Do you want any ice water? I have plenty." She'd frozen her water before coming out. It was blessedly cold and refreshing. 

When I did reach the next water, I still had to walk 1/3 mile off trail for it. I passed a stand of pine trees, though, with soft pine needle carpeting and thick shade. I ate lunch there, and then just dozed off for a short nap. It was still pretty warm when I got up, but I felt a lot better. 

Topo and Grasshopper caught up with me towards late afternoon, they'd zeroed in Buena Vista. Apparently I missed quite a nice place, but I was heading towards meeting my wife so I didn't worry about it. They stopped to "splash around" in the river and camped kind of early, but I pressed on. I made it to Spy Rock a little before dark, and there were three recent VMI grads there. They were going to receive their commissions next week, and this was their last hurrah. Marines. One of them gave me a Clif bar, said "You need it more than me."  I didn't argue. 

Skipped The Priest shelter. There's a tradition of going there to write a confession in the register, apparently they're usually pretty humorous. I was trying to hit 30 miles, though, so passed it up. Didn't make it, though. The Priest is a mountain with an extremely rocky and steep descent of over 3000 feet, and then you will immediately start climbing the Three Ridges Mountain (3000 feet up). I was super tired, and I'd been walking by headlamp for a couple of hours so I found a wide spot at the bottom of the Priest and spread my poncho out for some cowboy camping. Only hit a little over 28 miles for the day. I'm kidding about the only. That's still quite a lot for me!

Kristo the Lion. Came in late to the shelter, and in the morning picked up a ton of trash other people had left at the shelter. Good guy. 

So hot!

Ice Water Lady took this. 

There was a swing. 

And I swung. 

Night of the Lupus. That is the rabbit one, right?

Where I slept. 

800 miles.

Tonight I am sleeping at a shelter at the 800 mile mark. I remember when each 100 miles was a big deal. Today I barely noticed. It is a bloody long way, though, if you think about it. 

I'm going to wake up as the only person in the shelter again in the morning, also. This time, however, there are three other people staying with me tonight. They are all planning on getting up at midnight and walking in the dark to best the heat. Two southbound section hikers and Happy Eyes (formerly Legs). Really that's not too terrible an idea, but the last time I did some night hiking it messed me up for days. 

So last night I wasn't completely alone. I shared the shelter with a whippoorwill, who was quite irate with me for staying there. He definitely let me have it, didn't realize how loud those guys really are, and he had some help from the acoustics in the shelter. He woke me up in the morning, also. 

Got out of camp around 8, I guess. Three miles uphill to start off. Spent the morning pretty much alone, but got some signal up on the mountain, so uploaded a few posts and checked some emails. Got a text from the wife, saying she'd see me in a few days. This was news to me, but very pleasant news. Very much looking forward to it. Also got a hold of my dad, and they're sending my good sleeping pad back to me. Can not wait. 

Happy Eyes (actually I've been calling her Mad Libs) caught up with me. But her dog did first. Naila came running up to me on the trail, and she was by herself. I was trying to decide whether I should hold on to her or if this was some Lassie thing where I was supposed to follow her to an injured Mad Libs. Turns out neither, Mad Libs was just a little behind. 

Walked with her a while today. We'd met several times and spoken, but this was the first time we'd really spent any time together. She's pretty interesting, did some therapy stuff for kids for a couple of years after college before deciding to do the AT. But she's a very quick walker. 

While we were talking to some day-hikers on the top of a mountain Ranger caught up. I started walking with him, while Naila and Mad Libs pushed ahead. He's a great hiking companion also, pointing out different trees and flowers. Went through an old growth virgin forest section today, and my experience was very enriched by his teaching. I really like the Geezers. They're a blast to walk with as well as hang out with. I told Ranger today, "I'd say I hope I'm in as good as shape as you guys when I'm you're age, but I wish I was in as good a shape as you are now." He laughed. 

Princess and Rocketman caught up with us at the Punchbowl shelter. I think it's called that because it's next to a pond. That's also where I met Sherpa and Carry Stove, two section hikers. They're pretty cool, and had a lovely dog of some sort that I can't remember what breed they told me. Both doctors. Unfortunately their dog and Naila did not become friends, so Mad Libs hung out inside the shelter while they were outside at the picnic area. I ate lunch with her, and then came outside to hang out with the Geezers and doctors. Turns out they were neighbors, living within half a mile of each other. Crazy, hug?

Walked with Ranger for several more miles until they reached the place they were going to camp. They were catching a ride into town tomorrow to stay in a B&B. Someday I will be retired and staying at B&Bs all the time. They're planning on taking a little time, and I'm planning on pushing hard next two days. I expect I'll see them again, though. Sure hope so. Saw a couple of snakes with Ranger and a deer with Princess. 

The last few miles of walking today were great. The trail was along either a reservoir or a creek the entire time. Smooth trail, lovely little waterfalls. Ran into Sherpa and Carry Stove again, they were in a picture perfect spot. I was a bit jealous, but I wanted to push farther. Finally came up to the shelter and splashed around a bit in the creek to clean some of the grime off. Eighteen miles today. Tomorrow is going to be a long one. 

Another pretty view. 

Black snake. 

Some bird on Mad Lib's pack. I was calling it a Black Jay. It ate a moth. 

Sherpa and Carry Stove 

Me on a bridge. 

All alone. Woe is me.

I mean, not really. I do have the shelter completely to myself. Not a soul around. A little annoying since I was supposed to meet Dino and Sisyfus here.

Started pretty late this morning. Last night was the second night using this foam sleeping pad instead of my Big Agnes inflatable one, and this just ain't gonna cut it. Unfortunately I sent that one home already, so I'm stuck with this one until I can get the good one mailed back to me. Poor choices. 

Anyway, slept terrible, plus I think I was still trying to get my schedule back after that silly night hike. Got up sort of late, Dino and Sisyfus were motivated I guess, and left fairly early. I didn't leave until 0930. 

Just sort of meandered today. Was really in no hurry. Walked and talked with Cheeseburger and Baggy for quite a bit. They do something with environmental science (something with bats) and know all kinds of plants, animals, and birds. Learned quite a bit. I probably already forgot most of it, but I hope some of it sticks. 

Ran into The Geezers again. They gave me honorary membership. Not sure if I can get ten percent off anything with that or not. They were at the shelter before the one I was going to meet Dino and Sis at, and I had plenty of time, so I hung out for a while. Probably nearly two hours. I enjoyed it, and Ranger pointed out some trees to me, including a cucumber tree. Apparently that's what it's called. 

Cheeseburger, Baggy, and Santa were heading into Glasgow, but I was skipping it since I didn't need a resupply. I was tempted, though, since the town had a pavilion built where hikers could stay and even shower for free. But I was going to meet Dino and Sis at the shelter right after town, so decided against it. 

Which is why I'm here alone. Got plenty of space. There was a note for me in the register telling me they were pushing farther, but since I got here so late I'm just going to bed. Dino left a note wondering if I would make it where they are. I hope she didn't make a bet again. I wrote under it "Unlikely."  

Crossed the James river today, on the Foot Bridge, apparently the longest pedestrian bridge on the AT. Foot is actually the name of the guy the bridge is dedicated to. Maybe I'll get up early tomorrow and put in some miles. 

Cheeseburger and Baggy. 

Selfie. 

Foot Bridge. 

The James River. 

So far to go. 

Reunited

Dinosaur caught up with me and Sisyphus today. Which wasn't hard, as we barely walked today. Sis took off early, but when I got to the next shelter (5 miles) she was in her sleeping bag there. She'd hurt her knee, and was hanging out. I sat to eat lunch, and just never really got going again. Dinosaur, Ranger, Princess, Rocketman, and Santa all caught up, beating the afternoon rain. We played Diamonds while waiting for the weather to clear up. Didn't go so well for me. 

I was incredibly tempted to just stay at that shelter, for a five mile nero, but Dinosaur and Sis pushed on. I figured I didn't have any excuse, but I looked in the guidebook trying to find one. No luck, so I bid the Geezers adieu. Five more miles was the next shelter, where I currently am with Dinosaur, Sisyfus, Safari, Cheeseburger, and Baggy. Dino won a dollar from Sisyphus, who bet I wouldn't show up. Had some dinner, and Cheeseburger gave me some wild leeks for my wrap. Delicious, though now I'm fighting leek after taste. Tomorrow I'm planning on going past Glasgow. 

Princess and Rocketman preparing stuff for the rain. 

Black rock Overlook. 

The Guillotine. 

More crazy wonderful trail magic.

So, past few days have been pretty great. First, on the 1st, walked 10 miles into Dalesville, where I'd planned on resupplying and moving on. My broken pack was worrying me, however. It was still 60 miles to Glasgow, and I'd probably get there either Saturday or Sunday after post office hours. So I had a reasonably clever thought, and I called the Glasgow post office to have them forward my mail to Dalesville, and I'd spend the night in town. 

So on the morning of the second, I went to the post office to pick up my packages. But alas, there was only a solitary package there. The one from Momma Sparkle containing way too much food (and an Ale-8!), and not the one containing the piece of my pack that I needed to actually continue on my hike. So phone calls were made. Apparently, since that package was shipped UPS, only UPS could ship it, and it wouldn't arrive until Monday. Uh-oh. 

Not to worry, the wonderful Seyra at the outfitter in town (Outdoor Trails, I think it was) saved my day. She had a spare of the piece I needed, and even helped me install it. All of this took longer than expected however, so it was past noon when I was ready to hike. Then I ran into Dinosaur and Beandip, who'd just made it into town. I was invited to eat with them, so I did. They were splitting a room with Spirit Crusher and Thin Mint, and offered me a spot on their floor. So I figured to heck with it, and zeroed. Though I stayed in Fireman's room. He had a second bed that wasn't being used, so I got a bed. Happy days. 

So I moved on the next day, the 3rd. Easy walking, pretty surroundings, but I was feeling burned out. Did about 10 miles, and then sat at the second shelter I came to for an hour. It was a little after noon, and the sun was hot. Talked with Capt and her partner (drawing a blank on the name but she's already thru-hiked twice, nice and knowledgeable lady). Moxie showed up and I traded him a pastry to fill my water bottle. I was debating on whether to go further when Dino and Sisyfus showed up. I'd never met Sis before, but she has one of those infectious smiles. When I told her my name, she said, "You're Midnight Sparkle!? I've been wanting to meet you forever! I feel like I'm meeting a celebrity." So obviously I like her. She looked so familiar, though, and I couldn't figure out why, until it suddenly dawned on me that she had an uncanny resemblance to Starbuck from the new Battlestar Galactica. I think Kaytee Sackhoff every time I see her now. 

They were pushing off, and asked me if I wanted to go, so I joined them. Sis was leading and she was flying, until Dino eventually suggested a tamer speed, and Sis apologized, because she was worried she would slow us down. I laughed at that.  Not much can slow me down, hard to get slower than me. 

Then the crazy stuff happened. We got to Taylor overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and I said let's take a break. So we took our packs off and flopped down, and almost immediately a pickup truck swerves into the overlook with a bunch of hollering. It's Sis's friends, who'd met up with Kindergarten Cop, a former PCT thru-hiker and retired LAPD cop, back in Daleville. Two of them had hiked with him on the PCT. Her friends were Geared Up (who'd made his own backpack out of ziplock bags), Cristo the Lion, and Winging It. We picked up Moxie at the next overlook. 

Kindergarten Cop (KC) took us to his place in Bedford, a beautiful old Victorian home. He and his wife had moved out here when they retired. You've heard the phrase "bigger than life?" KC is who they were talking about. Not necessarily physically, as he's not particularly tall, though he's quite solidly built. I wouldn't keep score in his register, anyway. But his presence and obvious zest for life are remarkable. 

They had made food for us, ribs, corn, incredibly delicious pies with a local dairy's ice cream, and a ton of other stuff. The girls watched a movie (Kill Bill 1), but I spent the evening talking with KC and the other guys. The man had so many crazy interesting stories. Some would make you laugh, and some would make you cringe. He wrote a novel that's in the editing stage, of which I read a chapter. Pretty entertaining, I'm looking forward to reading it all when it's published. The best part of hanging out with KC? I could tell my own stories. 

I've had to be careful about what stories to tell on the Trail. It's mostly civilians, and some story that I think is hilarious could draw looks of horror. But I didn't have to censor myself with KC.  He's seen similar things and been in similar situations. It felt like I was talking to another soldier. It felt good. I really missed that, and hadn't even realized it. 

The plan was to go back to the Trail in the morning. However, when morning came (they fed us a huge and excellent breakfast as well!), Dino says, "Can we stay and watch Kill Bill 2? Then we can do night hiking tonight! It will be fun!" I was less than enthused, but it was a bit of a drive back to the trailhead and I didn't want KC to make an extra trip, plus I was really enjoying sitting on his front porch swing talking with him and his wife. So long story short, we got back on the Trail at about 1630. Pretty late. Cristo, Gear, and Wing stayed at KC's. 

The girls and I met up with Moxie at the next shelter, and we all hiked together for a while. Saw a large blacksnake, freaked Dino out until we explained it wasn't poisonous. Seen several of those guys, so far. Passed Ranger, Princess, and Rocketman, who'd set up camp in a reasonably flat spot, and we reached the next shelter right at dark. This was about ten miles in.  Dino says, "Umm, I think I'm going to camp here." Ha. 

So Moxie, Sis, and I go for the night hike Dino suggested. It was pretty fun, I guess. We passed the time by singing. But only songs from the nineties, and we rotated who picked one. It was mostly just choruses and a few random lines, but good time. Arrived at the shelter just after midnight, for about seventeen miles. Facts, Grasshopper, and Topo were the only ones there, and it fit 20 people. Really nice shelter. Lovely design. Bryant shelter, I think it's called. And there was a note from Canary to me in the register, which made me happy. Good times, but I don't think I'm doing that again. 

Gear's homemade bag. 

Sisyfus, Kindergarten Cop, and Dinosaur.

Yet another beautiful view. 

Sis, Dino, and Moxie. 

It's just nice out here. 

The 700 Club

Much better day. Spent nearly the entire day by myself. The Machine and Survivorman were gone by the time I woke up. Scott (section hiker) was prepping his stuff also. I got my stuff ready while everyone else was waking up. Several people were going to the store right down the road, so I rode with them, had an overpriced BLT, and then they dropped me off at the trailhead. 

Really misty today. Fog covered everything. But no rain, and that was a blessing considering the forecast claimed today would be much worse than the last two. Hiked up on McAfee's Knob, the rock ledge that juts out and is the most photographed landmark on the AT. I had signal there, so I hung out for a good hour hoping someone would come by to take my picture. No joy. The timer on my camera was only for 10 seconds, so I almost killed myself sprinting across the cliffs to get in the picture. Turned out okay, I guess. Can't upload them until I get to a computer. 

Beautiful views around Tinker Cliffs, the fog spread itself thin enough for almost a half an hour of lovely scenery. That was one of my favorite sections of the AT so far. 

In the shelter tonight is The Machine, Survivorman, Scott, Resistance, and me. I guess no one else headed out today. It was a good day of hiking, and it's nice having only a few good people around. 

That's my backpack on McAfees Knob with the fog. 

Pretty sweet rock house. 

Me in the dense fog. 

The Campbell Shelter. 

Pretty.